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Pure Soapmaking

Make luxurious natural soaps that are gentle to the skin, kind to the environment, and beautiful to look at. Soap Queen Anne-Marie Faiola, author of Soapcrafting, returns with a collection of cold-...


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    June 2018
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This is an excerpt from AVAILABLE JANUARY ���� EDITED BY  Lisa Hiley ART DIRECTION AND BOOK DESIGN BY INDEXED BY  Michaela Jebb  Nancy D. Wood  © Lara Ferroni (author), Mars Vilaubi (back), and Michaela Jebb (front and spine) COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY  © Tara Donne, W I T H P H O T O S T Y L I N G B Y  Raina Kattelson: 1–3, 5–8, 11, 18, 42, 54, 68–70, 78, 82, 86, 100–102, 108, 114, 118, 126, 130, 136, 140, 146–148, 158, 162, 166, 178, 182, 186, 190, 198, 204, 210, 218, 224 STILL�LIFE PHOTOGRAPHY BY  © Lara Ferroni: 15, 16, 21–39, 45–50, 58, 60, 64, 72, 73, 76, 77, 80, 81, 84, 85, 88, 89, 92–94, 98, 99, 104–107, 110–112, 115–117, 120, 121, 124, 125, 128, 129, 132–134, 137–139, 142–145, 150–152, 155, 157, 160, 161, 164, 165, 168–171, 174–176, 179–181, 184, 185, 188, 189, 192–196, 199–203, 206–209, 213–217, 220–223, 226–229, 232–236 HOW�TO PHOTOGRAPHY BY ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY BY COVER LETTERING BY  Mars Vilaubi: 52, 74, 122, 136, 154, and Michaela Jebb: 90, 96, 172, 230  © Nicolas Fredrickson Be sure to read all the instructions thoroughly before undertaking any of the projects in this book and follow all the safety guidelines provided. © 2016 by Anne-Marie Faiola All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher, except by a reviewer who may quote brief passages or reproduce illustrations in a review with appropriate credits; nor may any part of this book be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means — electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or other — without written permission from the publisher. The information in this book is true and complete to the best of our knowledge. All recommendations are made without guarantee on the part of the author or Storey Publishing. The author and publisher disclaim any liability in connection with the use of this information. Storey books are available for special premium and promotional uses and for customized editions. For further information, please call 1-800-79 1-800-793-9396. 3-9396. Storey Publishing ��� MASS MoCA Way North Adams� MA ����� www�storey�com    P     A     O     S    E    D     A     M    D     N     A    H  �    E    R    U    P    F     O    Y    T    U     A    E    B    E    H    T � O D U C T I  I O  O N   R  T  I N The Beauty of Pure,  Han  H anddmade So Soap  C H A P T E R  �  Using Herbs Other Natural  Ad  Additiv tives T   H E U S E O F N AT AT U R A L I N G R E D I E N T S  in body care products, long a popular commercial trend, continues to increase. Adding herbs and other natural additives can increase customer demand, label appeal, and overall aesthetics. Additives such as herbs and flowers, coffee and tea, nuts, chocolate, oatmeal, silk fibers, and even tobacco can be P   U  R  E   S   O A  P  M A  K  I    N  G added for many different reasons. For starters, many of them have excellent antioxidant properties, which can help to increase the skin-loving traits of your bar. Others Others make for great use as exfoliants. They T hey can also help to color your soap or add texture. Before You Start When adding natural products to soap� there are a ew things to take into consideration� i using any o these� �See Considering Nut Allergies� page ���� Will it discolor?  While some herbal additives produce beautiully colored soap� most others will eventually turn brown and discolor the final product� Some cause a “halo” effect where the color spreads out rom the herb particles in the soap� eventually taking over most o the bar� You’ll You’ll want to plan pl an or this when wh en creating your soap design� Or just use those soaps up more quickly!  Shoul d I use the herb  Should h erb itself or o r make an infusion?  When using herbs to color your soap� you’ll need to make an oil inusion to extract as much colorant as possible� To use them as an exoliant� to add texture� or or aesthetic purposes� adding the actual herb directly at thin trace is fine� �See pages ����� or directions on making herbal inusions��  How scratchy scratc hy will it be?  I you’re using additives as an exoliant� you’ll want to do some testing to find the correct “scratch actor�” A product that is ground too finely or used in very small amounts will be unnoticeable� using larger chunks or adding too much o it could potentially cause harm� �Nobody wants to lose a layer o skin!�  Is this additive addit ive a possible poss ible allergen?  all ergen?  Additives like nutshells could cause an allergic reaction in some sensitive people� You’ll want to make sure you add a warning to your label  How long will wil l natural natu ral colors colo rs last las t in soap?  How long color lasts depends on the ingredient� Natural green colors tend to ade airly quickly �within a couple o weeks� to brown or gray or even become almost non� existent� Shades o orange and red� such as the tomato color in Layered Tomato Swirl Bars �page ���� will ade� but not as drastically or as quickly as the greens� Keeping your soap out o direct sunlight can help extend the lie o the color� A good alternative to natural colorants is to use nature� identical oxides� which are ofen called or in this book� They hold their color much better� ��  �           T          E  �  �             N     A     K    L   A   � �      �       A         L       K      A    N    E  T   �    �   �    �   � � � � �  � �   E S S EE      T      N     E  G I       N  A       L            A     R  �    �   �   �   �       O O     1                     0               X          �  R                   �  A                   �  N              � G          E             �     �            � E     S    S    E     N    N  O   O   I   S    U     F     N       I   X    0   1 T  I  A L 0 C O  O C O A  �  �       �      �      �      P        A    P     R  I  K   A I N FF  U       S     O   T    T   T I     A O      A   N  N         I    N    L     N     U       A          O      R      I         P          S       �             T    T         �       �               A       �            N       �       �     �       �          N         A       �      �        �      �      �         �      �      �      �  �   � �   �    � Y  A R  R  O    W      RO W   W    R  A   Y    �     �    �     �     �        �         �   �    �    �      �  R E     OMF   EY         C   �              T  �              O �              O       R        T �      �            O �     �     �    C     O   C    �   � �   � � �  P  A P   P R      I      K       A        �   �     �    R �    �    �    O  A      R      O   R  E M  A D D  � � �   �   � �   �  �  �     ���     E    D   D  M A  R O   O  S    E     C      L      A            Y             �       �   �     �    �    �     Y  R  O    A  L  S E  E   C �    � �  � �   �  �  S P   PI       R    U         � L        �   � �   �  �  N E   ET      T    L  E      I                 N            A             �       �    �     �    �    �   �    � �  �   �   �     � � C O   O  M    F       R      E       Y              � �   �   �     � DI    I N D  I  G       O     N    E T   T  T L E � � � � � �  �   I       N        D           I     G             O          CHAPTER �  Al  All Abo About Simplicity  A P T E R  �   H  C  Alll abo  A about Si Simplicity  R E C I P E S Comfrey & Spirulina  Multicolored Cubes Comfrey Spirulina M  U    E  S  B  U O L O R E D  C LT I C  Makes � bars Spirulina is a dark-green algae that grows in lakes. It is rich in essential fatty acids, such as Omega-3s, -6s, and -9s, that are great for the skin. Comfrey leaves contain allantoin,  which is said to protect the skin and promote new cell growth. growth. The addition of refreshing rosemary and peppermint essential oils cools the skin and awakens the mind. Mold and Special Tools Oil Amounts » ��bar silicone cube mold ��� ounces palm oil ����� » Heating pad ��� ounces coconut oil ����� Colorant and  Additive Amounts Amount s ��� ounces oun ces avocado butter ���� Lye-Water Amounts ��� ounces o unces lye ��� superfat� ���� ounces distilled water � teaspoons sodium lactate �optional� ���� ounces olive oil pure ����� ��� ounce castor oil ���� ��� ounces rice bran oil ����� Essential Oil Blend ��� ounces rosemary essential oil ��� ounce peppermint essential oil� �nd distill � tablespoon tablespoo n comfrey powder dispersed into � tablespoon rice bran oil � teaspoon spirulina powder dispersed into � tablespoon rice bran oil � teaspoon rose clay dispersed into � tablespoon distilled water � teaspoon alkanet root pow� der dispersed into � table� spoon rice bran oil  Note: This mold creates beautiful bars, but it can be tricky to remove them if sodium lactate is not included. Safe Soaping! Wear proper safety gear the whole time� Work in a well�ventilated space� No distractions �keep kids and pets away�� ��     S    D     N    U     O    R     G    E    E    F    F     O     C    H    T    I     W    B    U    R     C     S    R    E     N    E    D    R     A     G ��� Gardener Scrub with Coffee Grounds Pale Ale with Cocoa Powder  Goat Milk Sunset  Burst