Easy! How To Tile A Bathroom Diy Made

Transcript

DIY made easy! HOW TO TILE A BATHROOM Don’t just DO IT YOURSELF DO IT WITH BEAUMONTS! DIY made easy! PREPARE & CLEAN A BATHROOM FOR TILING tip: Before you start tiling, ensure you’ve picked your bathroomware and chosen where it will go in your bathroom. Changing your plumbing fixtures becomes much more difficult after you start tiling! Any tiling job will only be as good as the surface it’s laid on. It’s important to ensure that, no matter what surface you’re tiling on, that the surface is sound, level and clean of dust and debris. Most floor surfaces are concrete or timber, while plasterboard is common for walls. Concrete: For best results, the concrete must be allowed to cure for a minimum 28 days before it is tiled over. Steel trowelled concrete must be mechanically roughened (and then thoroughly washed) prior to tiling or there will not be enough adhesion. All concrete release agents and curing compounds must be removed by mechanical means. For cracks larger than 1.5mm consult your local suppliers. Timber flooring: Due to the expansion and contraction of the timber, it is never recommended to adhere ceramic tiles directly onto timber floors. Untreated floors should be primed and allowed to dry prior to tiling. Plasterboard: Plasterboard is a very common indoor wall surface, but is not suitable for tiling without waterproofing. Tiling over plasterboard involves adhering tiles to a paper surface, and although this will present little problem in dry areas, if the wallboard is subject to moisture, it may deteriorate causing failure. Plasterboard should be waterproofed before tiling. Information on other types of wall and floor surfaces can be found on our Tiling Wall and Floor Surfaces page. We recommend “dry laying” your tiles without adhesive prior to tiling. A test run will help you figure out your tile placement (especially tiles with patterns or details such as marbling) without laying them permanently. It’s also an excellent way to double check that you have the right amount of tiles and whether any tiles need cutting. WATERPROOF A BATHROOM FOR TILING When tiling a wet area like a bathroom, waterproofing before you tile is absolutely essential. The good news is that with the seven steps on the next page, a good waterproofing kit like the ABA Barrierflex Waterproofing Kit and a bit of carefulness and thoroughness, waterproofing is actually very easy. DIY made easy! WATERPROOF A BATHROOM FOR TILING When tiling a wet area like a bathroom, waterproofing before you tile is absolutely essential. The good news is that with the seven steps on the next page, a good waterproofing kit like the ABA Barrierflex Waterproofing Kit and a bit of carefulness and thoroughness, waterproofing is actually very easy. Step 1 Having cleaned the wall and floor area thoroughly to remove all the dirt and dust, apply a liberal coating of primer using a brush. Step 2 You will also receive a tube of Neutral Core Silicone Sealer included in your Waterproofing Kit. Run a generous bead along all internal corners (wall and floor). Finish off the bead using your finger. Note: Do not use any other kind of silicone. Step 3 Using an old paint brush, apply a liberal coat of the pre-mixed membrane to the internal corners. Paint it on either side of the corner, approximately 150mm wide. Step 4 Place a length of reinforcing mat (also included in your Waterproofing Kit) to each of the corner joins. Then smooth down the mat to bed it down into the wet membrane. Wherever the mat joins, ensure that it overlaps by at least 100mm. DIY made easy! WATERPROOF A BATHROOM FOR TILING Step 5 Brush a second coat of premixed membrane over the cloth and around the taps and any other penetrations through the wall or floor. Once all the corners are done, use a paint roller to cover the entire wall and floor. We always insist that the total wet area is waterproofed. Step 6 After the first coat of membrane is complete and dry, apply a second coat. A good tip is to roll the first coat all in one direction and roll the second coat at 90 degrees (a right angle) to the first. Step 7 Allow the membrane to dry for 24 hours before proceeding with tiling. check it out: 87650 ABA Barrierflex Waterproofing Kit contains: Barrierflex liquid Barrierflex powder Primer Silicone sealer Reinforcing mat Gloves & directions DIY made easy! HOW TO CUT BATHROOM TILES It’s almost inevitable that some of your tiles will have to be cut to fit your wall or floor, and there will probably be some that have to be cut into a different shape as well as size. Cutting tiles is not difficult with access to decent equipment and with a little practice. If you’re cutting your own tiles (and especially if you’re doing this for the very first time), it’s a good idea to allow a couple of extra tiles for practice or in case of any slight mishaps that may happen. In this fact sheet we show you how to make a straight cut, cut a shape, cut small shapes, and to cut away small pieces of tile. When it comes to cutting tiles, there are a few options. If you are likely to do a few tiling projects around your home, or are likely to lend specialist tools to friends, neighbours, or relatives; a tradesman’s tile cutter is an excellent investment (and will make you popular with anyone else starting their own tiling projects!) If this is a once-only tiling project, then the best option will be to hire a tile cutter from your local Beaumont Tiles store. You might also consider buying a cheaper ‘handyman’ tile cutter. While these can be a good option, they are not built to last a long time. They will, however, do a great job for one or two jobs around the home. To make a Straight Cut Step 1 Using a pencil, mark where the tile needs to be cut. Make sure that you cut the tile smaller than the space to allow for even grout joints. Step 2 Place the tile in the tile cutter and run the scorer across the tile (once only!). This creates a break point in the tile. Step 3 Push down the breaker. This will deliver a nice clean and evenly cut tile. DIY made easy! To cut a shape Step 1 Using a pencil, mark where the tile needs to be cut. Make sure that you cut the tile smaller than the space to allow for even grout joints. Step 2 Use the tiles cutter to score each of the lines that will be cut. This creates a break point in the tile. Step 3 Cut to the scored lines using an electric grinder. SIdes first and then the middle. To cut a small shape or to cut away a small piece Step 1 Using a pencil, mark where the tile needs to be cut. Make sure that you cut the tile smaller than the space to allow for even grout joints. Step 2 Use the tiles cutter to score each of the lines that will be cut. This creates a break point in the tile. Step 3 Break off little pieces (‘nibbles’) of the tile using a pair of tile nibblers until the mark shape has been achieved. pro tip: Always break of small amounts at a time: never try to break off the whole shape at once. Always wear safety glasses and a respirator when cutting tiles with an electric grinder. DIY made easy! CUTTING HOLES IN TILES FOR FITTINGS Cutting holes in tiles is quite easy, and there are basically three options. You can either use a tradesman hole cutter, a handyman hole cutter, or you can drill and ‘nibble’ the hole to the required size. Whether you use a hole cutter or a drill will depend upon what you are making the holes for. If it’s for a tap or another penetration, you will need to use a hole cutter before laying the tile. If the hole is for a fitting then it can be made with a drill after the tile is laid. CUTTING WITH A HOLE CUTTER The method here is the same whether you use a tradesman or handyman hole cutter. The difference between the two is that the tradesman hole cutter is a professional quality tool. While the handyman hole cutter isn’t designed to last as long as the professional model, it will work well for one or two jobs around the home Step 1 Use a pencil to mark where the tile needs to be cut and mark the centre of the hole Step 2 Place some tape on the centre mark. This is to prevent the drill bit from slipping on the surface of the tile. Place the tile over a stable and suitable work surface. Step 3 Drill the hole using a hole cutter. DIY made easy! DRILL A HOLE FOR FITTINGS Step 1 Use a pencil to mark the spot where you need to drill. Place some tape on the centre mark. This is to prevent the drill bit from slipping on the surface of the tile. Step 2 Use another piece of tape to make a small well to collect the dust when we drill. This will save a lot of cleaning up! Step 3 Drill the hole. Do not use the hammer function on your drill until you have drilled through the glazed surface of the tile. Remove the tape and the job is done. check it out: 112375 Diamond Core Drill Bit 38mm 112376 Diamond Core Drill Bit 50mm DIY made easy! LAY AND GROUT BATHROOM FLOOR TILES Once you’ve done a trial “dry lay” with your tiles and your floor surface is clean and ready for tiling, so are you! These 12 steps will take you through how to lay and grout your tiles. Step 1 Measure out from the wall to establish a square line and starting point (the video on our website shows how to do this). Mark the area where you will start tiling. Step 2 Brush and prime the floor. Step 3 Mix the adhesive (follow the manufacturer’s instructions) and spread about one square metre of adhesive on the floor where you are going to start tiling. Step 4 For floor tiles, we use a 10mm notched trowel to spread adhesive. By using a notched trowel, the adhesive is applied leaving little tracks on the floor. Once the tile is bedded into place these notches will flatten out to leave a bed of adhesive 5mm thick. Step 5 Place each tile in position with a firm push and bed it into place with a slight up and down wiggle across the notches of the adhesive. Every now and then, lift a tile to check that it has complete coverage with the adhesive. DIY made easy! LAY AND GROUT BATHROOM FLOOR TILES Step 6 As you lay the tiles, use spacers to set the grout joints and to make small adjustments to the tile placement. This keeps all grout joints level and even. When you select your tiles, the Beaumont Tiles consultant will help you select grout joint sizes. We usually recommend 3-5mm for floor tiles. Don’t forget to clean off any excess adhesive from the face of the tiles as you work. Allow the adhesive 24 hours to dry before grouting. NOW IT IS TIME TO GROUT While grouting is not a difficult process, a well-grouted job can make all the difference to the finished project. Cleaning, buffing and polishing (with thorough repeating!) will pay untold dividends. Step 7 When mixing the grout, add the powder to the water to ensure a thorough mix with no lumps. Mix to a thick paste-like consistency. Step 8 While the grout settles as per the instructions on the bag, clean the area of any dust or mess. Step 9 Apply the grout. Push it into the joints and compress by wiping over at an angle across the joints. Do not apply grout to the corners where walls meet floors and where two walls meet. Silicone will need to be applied here. DIY made easy! LAY AND GROUT BATHROOM FLOOR TILES Step 10 Remove all the excess grout. Allow the grout to dry and for a film to set on the face of the tiles (this will take about an hour). Step 11 Clean up with a damp (but not too wet) sponge. Do not wash the floor or overly wet the surface. The trick is to lift the film without wetting the actual grouted joint. Make sure that you keep rinsing the sponge as you work. Step 12 After most of the grout is removed from the tile, buff over it with clean cloths and a doodle bug. Repeat this process three more times, it pays to be thorough! Wait one week before cleaning your new tiled floor. pro tip: The size of your tiles will determine the size of your trowel. For tiles smaller than 300x300, you can use an 8mm trowel, otherwise you’ll need a 10mm trowel. 90501 Ardex Stainless Steel Adhesive Trowel 8mm 90502 Ardex Stainless Steel Adhesive Trowel 10mm DIY made easy! TILE A BATHROOM WALL The secret to tiling a wall perfectly is all in the edges: the bottom row of tiles, and the ‘column’ of tiles in the corner. We’ll show you how to measure these out (accounting for any variations in the wall or floors), and you’ll see why it’s important to start tiling at the second row. The bottom row will fit in once the floor is tiled as well. Step 1 Cover the floor with some off-cut sheeting or heavy drop sheets. This protects the waterproof membrane from damage while we stand on it to tile the walls. Step 2 Now we have to decide where to start tiling. On the wall, mark the height of one full wall tile from the lowest spot on the floor. This will be somewhere outside the shower hob. Place a tile in position first, and measure up from there. Step 3 From the mark you just made, measure 25mm down and make another mark. Draw a level line across the wall at the height of the lower mark (use a spirit level to make sure it is completely level). This is where the second horizontal row of tiles will commence. Step 4 Set up your Tile Jacks so that the top edge of a timber straight edge is level with the horizontal line you’ve just marked. The tiles of the second row will temporarily sit on this piece of timber, so you will need to make sure it is sitting against the wall. DIY made easy! TILE A BATHROOM WALL Step 5 So we can decide if we can use a full tile at the wall junction (the corner between the two walls), we need to check that both walls are level and plumb. If they aren’t, we will need to cut these tiles and start with a narrower cut tile. This is to keep the tiles level and to hide the fact that the walls are out of plumb. Step 6 Mark the wall where the outside edge of the first tile will finish, then draw a line up the wall at that point (again, using the spirit level). This marks the first vertical row of tiles. TIP: Measure from the second row up so you can finish on a full tile at the top. Step 7 Spread about one square metre of adhesive so that it is enough for two horizontal rows of tiles and one vertical row of tiles on the first wall. Remember that we are starting one row up from the bottom. Step 8 With pre-mixed wall adhesive, we use a 6mm notched trowel (check the instructions on the pack) to apply the adhesive to the wall. Once the tile is bedded into place, these tracks flatten out to give full coverage to the surface. A 6mm notch will leave a bed of adhesive 3mm thick once the tile is in place. When applying wall adhesive, we always suggest that the notches run horizontally. Step 9 Place each tile in position by giving it a firm push into the adhesive and bed it into place with a slight up-and-down wiggle against the notches of the adhesive. DIY made easy! TILE A BATHROOM WALL Step 10 It is important to lift a tile every now and then after laying it into the adhesive. This is to check that you are achieving complete coverage of the adhesive to the tile. Step 11 As you lay the tiles, use spacers to set the grout joints and to make small adjustments to the tile placement. When you select your tiles, your Beaumont Tiles consultant will help you select grout joint sizes, but we usually recommend no less than 3mm for wall tiles. Step 12 The bottom row of tiles is the last to go in. These tiles will need to be cut to fit in the bottom row before being glued into place with the tile adhesive. Don’t forget to allow for a grout joint above and below the tiles when cutting them for the bottom row. Effectively, the tile will need to be 6mm smaller than the space where it will be placed. DIY made easy! CLEAN YOUR BATHROOM AFTER TILING Once your tiles have been laid and grouted, they will need to be cleaned thoroughly to remove all residue cement and grout smears, silicone leaching, and dirt. This cleaning is best done about a week after laying the tiles, as the grout will require 5-7 days to properly dry and age. Step 1 Begin by sweeping the floor to remove all loose debris. Then saturate the grout joints with cool, clean water. Step 3 Dilute phosphoric acid cleaner in warm water and apply the solution to the section of floor to be cleaned. Note: Once the solution has been applied to the floor, it cannot be allowed to dry until it is thoroughly rinsed. Add more water as necessary. Step 4 Once the solution has been left for 5-6 minutes (to break down the excess grout, dirt, and grease), scrub the tiles with a brush to lift the dirt, and remove with a wet vacuum cleaner. Repeat steps 3 and 4 if necessary. Step 5 Finally, before allowing the area to dry, rinse thoroughly several times with cold, clean water, agitating with the scrubbing brush to ensure complete removal of the acid cleaner before using the wet vacuum cleaner to remove the excess water from the surface. Note: If the surface isn’t rinsed thoroughly enough, or is allowed to dry before rinsing; an off-white deposit will remain on the tiles, and will be more difficult to remove. Step 6 Dilute cleaning detergent for high concentration in your second bucket of warm water and apply to the tiles with a heavy scrubbing brush. Leave for 5-15 minutes before rinsing thoroughly with cool, clean water. Remove the excess water with a wet vacuum cleaner. Once your tiles are clean, maintaining them at their best through regular cleaning is easy. See the next sheet in this series for tips on routing cleaning. Note: Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions when using cleaning products on your tiles. DIY made easy! KEEPING YOUR BATHROOM TILES CLEAN Tiles are one of the most hygienic and easily maintained wall and floor surfaces you can choose. As they are virtually non-porous, tiles tend not to absorb any liquid, smoke, or fumes. In other words, it’s very, very hard to get tiles dirty! They will only need a quick clean once a week! A simple routine clean following these three easy steps will keep your tiles in top condition: Step 1 Vacuum or sweep the area. This will remove most of the dirt and grit from the area. As well as making the next step much easier, getting rid of these little abrasive particles will protect your tiles from becoming scratched. Step 2 Dilute Concentrated Stone & Tile Cleaner (refer to the manufacturer’s instructions) and apply to tiles with a mop or sponge. Step 3 Agite solution with a brush or scrub pad and mop up the dirty solution before it dries. check it out: 508005 Concentrated Stone & Tile Cleaner DIY made easy! Tiling a bathroom: What You’ll Need Adhesives 90045 ABA Powerstik Powder 20kg 90578 ABA Mixing Bucket Grouts 90574 ABA Easy Grout White 750gm 90575 ABA Easy Grout Black 750gm 90576 ABA Easy Grout Travertine 750gm 90577 ABA Easy Grout Slate Grey 750gm 508304 Aerosol Sameday Grout Sealer 443mL 508005 Concentrated Tile & Stone Cleaner 946mL Leveller (optional) 90570 SALS Washer (400 pc bag) 90571 SALS Stems (400 pc bucket) 90572 SALS Caps (400 pc bucket) 115651 Electric Bench Saw 500mm 600W 115839 Cordless Vera Tool 115704 Coscut Tile Cutter 500mm 90515 Ardex Straight Jaw Tile Nipper 90516 Ardex Curved Jaw Tile Nipper 90524 Ardex Spacer Lugs 3mm (500) 115706 DTA Professional 3 Vial Level 600mm 90502 Ardex Stainless Steel Adhesive Trowel 10mm 90506 Ardex Stainless Steel Gauging Trowel 200mm Tools DIY made easy! Tiling a bathroom: What You’ll Need Tools 90530 Ardex Rubber Grout Float 111301 Straight Edge 2100mm 90538 Ardex Marking Pencils 110282 Tradesman Ultra Knee Pads Waterproofing 87650 ABA Barrierflex Waterproofing Kit From your toolbox Electric Drill Clean Rags String Tape Measure Paint Brush 90536 Ardex Micro Sponge