Transcript
TEXTILE DIVISION CHHINDWARA
AN INTERNSHIP REPORT
ABHITOSH ABHITOSH KUMAR KUMAR NEERAJ KUMAR
NIFT-Hyderabad 2010-2014
Contents
Preface Preface .................................................. ...................................................... .............................................................................. ........................ 3 Acknowledgeme Acknowledgement nt ............................................................................................... .............. 4 Introduction Introduction To Organisation Organisation................................................ .......................................... 5 Raymond Raymond Ltd Textile Division ............................................... .......................................... 8 Organizational Organizational Chart.......................................................................................... ............ 12 Process Process Flow of Department Department ....................................................................................... ... 13 Lead Period for Production Production Departments ........................................................ .................................................................... ............ 14 Plant Layout ................................................. ..................................................... ................................................................... .............. 15 Raw Material Material Godown ........................................................... ........................................ 16 Wool Scouring .................................................................................................................. 50 Grey Combing Department .............................................................................................. 50 Dyeing Department .......................................................................................................... 50 Recombing Department ................................................................................................... 50 P/V Spinning Department ................................................................................................ 51 Worsted Spinning Department ........................................................................................ 59 Weaving Department ....................................................................................................... 59 Finishing Department....................................................................................................... Department. ...................................................................................................... 59
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Contents
Preface Preface .................................................. ...................................................... .............................................................................. ........................ 3 Acknowledgeme Acknowledgement nt ............................................................................................... .............. 4 Introduction Introduction To Organisation Organisation................................................ .......................................... 5 Raymond Raymond Ltd Textile Division ............................................... .......................................... 8 Organizational Organizational Chart.......................................................................................... ............ 12 Process Process Flow of Department Department ....................................................................................... ... 13 Lead Period for Production Production Departments ........................................................ .................................................................... ............ 14 Plant Layout ................................................. ..................................................... ................................................................... .............. 15 Raw Material Material Godown ........................................................... ........................................ 16 Wool Scouring .................................................................................................................. 50 Grey Combing Department .............................................................................................. 50 Dyeing Department .......................................................................................................... 50 Recombing Department ................................................................................................... 50 P/V Spinning Department ................................................................................................ 51 Worsted Spinning Department ........................................................................................ 59 Weaving Department ....................................................................................................... 59 Finishing Department....................................................................................................... Department. ...................................................................................................... 59
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PREFACE
As a part of our course curriculum, we were supposed to undertake an extensive study of the textile production in a textile industry to know the technical as well as aesthetic know how of the textile procedures. We undertook the same at the Raymond Limited, textile division at Chhindwara. The division specializes in the manufacturing of the worsted polywool and poly-viscose fabric and is a renowned name in its field.
The document has been framed in such a way so as to cover each and every aspect related to the company. The document gives the overview about the Raymond Group, general information about the division. It also spans comprehensively the various procedures that take for the production of the worsted fabric that the division specializes in. The processes have been explained in detail according to their incidence in the m anufacturing process.
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
It is a highly reverent privilege for having got the illuminating opportunity to work under RAYMOND LIMITED (TEXTILE DIVISION) Limited for the fulfillment of our textile internship . This acknowledgement is a petite endeavor to thank all those who were directly / indirectly involved in this project and bestowed their kind co-operation in pursuit of the same. Our training at RAYMOND gave us the precious knowledge and insight in the study of textile background. We are highly indebted to the Raymond’s family , CHHINDWARA who gave us a wonderful experience in industry that not only enriched our knowledge bank but also gave us larger than life lessons and work ethics. We are grateful to MR. NARESH KADU (Placement Officer) who gave us the wonderful opportunity to learn about a text ile industry as esteemed as Raymond’s, without his support this project would have never been w hat it is today. Then we would like to thank our Mentor MR. A.PHANI who was always there to guide us through this tedious task. Last but not least we thank all the people who have somehow been a reason for completion of this onerous task
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1. INTRODUCTION TO THE ORGANIZATION Incorporated in 1925, Raymond Limited presently has five divisions comprising of textiles, Engineering file & tools, aviation, designer wear, and prophylactics and toiletries. With a capacity of million meters of wool & wool-blended fabrics making it the third largest integrated manufacturer in the world, Raymond Limited (Textile Division) has more than 60% market share of the Indian market for worsted suiting fabrics. Promoted as an essential accessory for “the Complete Man”, its products have set a benchmark in that genre. The company exports its suiting fabrics to more than 50 countries including USA, Canada, Europe, Japan and the Middle East. Raymond Ltd has laid great emphasis on developing strong in house skill for research & development since its inception. This unwavering attention to innovation has enabled it to introduce path- breaking new products in the market. Hailed as a pioneer and innovator, Raymond Ltd has raised the performance and product standards of the entire Indian textile industry. Raymond Limited rightfully recognized as the most respected Textile Company of Indian in January 2003 by “Business World”, also produces and markets plush- velvet furnishing fabric in a wide array of designs and colors including carpeting for the niche markets of India and Middle East. Manufacturing facilities include Four world- class fully integrated plants in India, employing state- of- the art technology from wool scouring to finishing stage and modern techniques of quality management. All the plants are self-sufficient in terms of providing educational, housing, recreation and spiritual support system for the employees and connected townships. The woolen mill by the creek in 1925 is presently transformed into a Rs. 1400 Crores conglomerate, but its mantra for continuous growth has remained the same: pursuit of excellence, to achieve enhanced customer satisfaction through ongoing innovation. And happily, the growth graph continues to rise higher and higher
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Cottons, blends and denim wear catering to the smart, fashionable and comfortable clothing segment. .
DIVISIONS Textiles Produces world-class pure wool,wool blended, polyester viscose fabrics, blankets, and ranks among the top 3 integrated producers in the world. Also produces a wide range of furnishing fabrics.
Denim The Denim division produces high quality ring denims and ranks among the top 3 producers in India.
Files & Tools Files & Tools division manufactures complete range of Engineer's steel files & drills and is the world’s largest producer of steel files.
Be An exclusive prêt-a-porter line of ready-to-wear designer clothing for women and men in western, ethnic and fusion styles.
Aviation Million Air was launched in 1996 to provide air charter services and enjoys a reputation for high quality reliable services.
Raymond Apparel Ltd. It has three highly regarded me n’s wear brands in its folio: Park Avenue, Parx and Manzoni.
J.K. Helene Curtis Ltd .
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It is the marketers of the Park Avenue and Premium brands of men’s toiletries.
Color Plus Fashions Pvt. Ltd . Established in 1993 Color Plus is one of the leading domestic brands for premium casual wear in the country.
BRANDS Raymond The largest and most respected textile brand in India for 'The Complete Man' addressing the innate need of men to look good and at the same time possess strength of character.
Park Avenue Formal readymade garments & accessories for men it has recently bagged the "Most Admired Brand" and "Most Admired Trouser Brand" awards.
Parx The semi formal and casual range of cottons, blends and denim wear catering to the smart, fashionable and comfortable clothing segment.
Manzoni The luxury range of men’s shirts and ties acknowledged for its high quality and international styling.
Be An exclusive prêt-a-porter line of ready-to-wear designer clothing for women and men in western, ethnic and fusion styles.
Premium The range of cosmetics & toiletries including after shaves, shampoos, cologne, shaving cream, soaps, deodorants, room fresheners, etc.
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2.
RAYMOND LTD. TEXTILE DIVISION (CHHINDWARA)
Raymond Chhindwara, which is a part of the JK group (western zone), situated at distance of 57 km from Orange city Nagpur. It is spread over a total area of 100 acres. This plot stands as a pioneer in the socio-economics development of this region, operation at the plant commenced st
in July 1990. The plants were in full swing by 1 April, 1991. In short span of four years they have achieved stupendous success. They have rapidly improved upon the efficiency figure. The spinning and weaving department have charged ahead of 90% efficiency levels in all over the world. Quite frankly they have exceeded all expectation, strive for excellence. But then what are the parameter of performance, is it production, is it quality, is it customer or is it the people they have perhaps it is an amalgamation of all this that spurs them on. The present capacity of the plant after expansion, which has been concluded recently, is 45,000 mtrs per day. Thus approximately 153 lacs meters is produced per annum at Chhindwara. The finishing department is the largest of its kinds in Asia, with a capacity of 40000
mtrs per day. These facts open to the possibility of carrying out finishing for other plants. As of now they process the complete production of Jalgaon. The vision for setting up the unit at CHHINDWARA has bee n:
To manufacture world –class polyester -wool and polyester-viscose blended suiting and furnishing fabrics at competitive prices,
To establish a large-scale unit in a backward area, which needed accelerated development,
To ensure all- round socio-economic progress of the region and its hinterland,
To catalyze the nascent industrial potential potential of smaller towns of the country, and
To provide additional sources of employment to people in & around Chhindwara district.
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The installed capacity of chhindwara unit is 128 looms and 33528 spindles as against the license capacity of 1500 looms and 50000 spindles. The unit has a work force of more than 2900. The plant is located on a 100 acre plot with a built-up area of 1,40000 sq meters and a green
belt area of 65%. The plant is well equipped with the most modern machinery, ensuring high efficiency and productivity. The work force is adequately skilled, well trained and competent. This unit became operational in the year 1991.
ACCOMPLISHMENTS 1. Safety Award from National Safety Council M P Chapter for excellent work in Industrial Heath and Safety in the year 1994-96. 2. National Energy Conservation Award from Ministry of Power Govt. of India
1999- First position
2002- Second position
2003- Certificate of merit
2004- Certificate of merit
3. ICMF’S Birla Economic & Textile Research Foundation for Energy Conservation in Textile Industry – First prize for the year 2003-04. 4. Golden peacock Environmental Management Award . World Environment Foundationfor the year 2000. 5. MP State Level Award from MPPCB for excellence in Environment Performance for the Year 2004-2005. 6. National Safety Award for year 2007. 7. The company has pledged itself to the protection of environment, prevention of pollution and conservation of nature resources. The mechanical engineering department ensures the fullest compliance with all applicable regulatory requirements. The in-house environmental laboratory helps the operational staff to improve the environmental performance by providing monitoring and measurement services.
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VITAL STATISTICS MANPOWER
: Per day the no. of person working all around the three shifts
(Including official staff) are 3626. The staff strength is 415.
POWER CONSUMPTION
: 1, 67,000 Unit per day
WATER REQUIREMENT
: 43 Lacs liter per day
COAL REQUIRED
: 58 Metric tones per day
OUT PUT
: 50,000 mtrs fabric per day
UNITS TURN OVER
: Rs. 430 crores approx p.a
THE LIST OF FACTORS LEADING TO SELECTION OF PLANT LOCATION IS AS FOLLOWS: 1. Cheap land 2. Availability of power, fuel and water 3. Availability of man power on cheaper rate 4. Site is near to Nagpur which is well connected with all places of the country by Rail, Road and Air. 5. MP Government gives 15% subsidy on total cost of proje ct (Rs.15 lacs) 6. Five percentage subsidy in electric charges (Rs.10 lacs)
GENERAL INFORMATION MILL
:
RAYMOND LTD (TEXTILE DIVISION), CHHINDWARA
ADDRESS
:
B-1 BOREGOAN INDUSTRIAL GROWTH CENTER A.K.V.N, KAILASH NAGAR TEHSIL – SAUNSAR
HEAD OFFICE
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:
J. BLLARD ESTATE, BOMBAY-400038
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K.BLDG, N. MORARJEEMARG
REGISTERED OFFICE
:
RAYMOND LTD, 56/ H.NO.F2 VILLAGE- ZADGAON,MAHARASHTRA
WORKS DIRECTOR GOODS MANUFACTURE
:
Mr. VINOD PARMESHWARAN :
SUITINGS ONLY, P/V AND P/W ALL WOOL AND FURNISHING FABRIC
CAPACITY
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: 50,000 Mtrs. OF FABRICS DAILY
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3. ORGANIZATIONAL CHART
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4. PROCESS FLOW OF DEPARTMENT PV-FD
PV-PD
PW-TD
PW-PD
Dyeing
Spinning / O/s Yarn
Grey Combing
Grey Combing
Spinning
Yarn Room
Dyeing
Recombing
Yarn Room
Warping – Weaving
Recombing
Spinning
Warping – Weaving
Mending
Spinning
Yarn Room
Mending
Finishing ( Pretreatment)
Yarn Room
Warping – Weaving
Finishing
Dyeing
Warping – Weaving
Mending
Finish Mending
Finishing (Post treatment)
Mending
Finishing ( Pretreatment)
Folding
Folding
Finishing
Dyeing
Warehouse
Warehouse
* Finish Mending
Finishing (Post treatment)
Folding
Folding
Warehouse
Warehouse
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5. LEAD PERIOD FOR PRODUCTION DEPARTMENTS Polywool Fabric
Department
Lead Period(Days)
Dyeing
05
Recombing
06
Spinning
14
Yarn Room
07
Weaving
11
Mending
03
Grey Room
04
Finishing & Folding
16
Contigency
04
Total
70
PolyViscose Fabric
Department
Lead Period(Days)
Dyeing
05
Spinning
20
Yarn Room
07
Weaving Mending
11 03
Grey Room
04
Finishing & Folding
16
Contigency
04
Total
70
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6. PLANT LAYOUT
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7.
RAW MATERIAL GODOWN
The Purpose of the raw material godown is to receive Raw material from outside party and also from inside departments and deliver as per the requirement with care. It stores the raw material with proper order, receives waste from various departments, and dispatches the waste m aterial. The raw material go down is connected to the wool scouring department. And the wool scouring department provides scoured wool to the top go down through pipelines which are further processed for carding and combing. The waste materials are sorted color wise, matching soft waste and also white separately according to the shade chart. While the non moving wastes are sorted out in six month and are inform to commercial department, & GM.
DEPARTMENTAL HIERARCHY
PLANT IN CHARGE
G.M. WORKS
DEPUTY MANAGER (RMG)
ASSISTANT
ASSISTANT
(RMG-1)
(RMG-2)
ASSISTANT Waste Department
FORK LIFT OPERATOR Raw material Unloading, Delivery, Dispatch and
WORK MAN
WORK MAN WORK MAN
PSF/VSF/ GREASY Wool
TOPS Receipt and Issue Work
Machine Erection & Shifting work
Waste packing, Sorting,
Receipt & Issue
Segregation
and Despatch
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7.1. Godown has three sections:1. Raw material godown (RMG) 2. Top godown 3. Waste godown
7.2.Raw material norms 1. PSF - Polyester staple fibers 2. VSF - viscose staple fibers 3. TOW - Polyester continuous filament 4. GWL- Greasy wool 5. SWL- Scoured wool
7.3.Process material Top is a bundles of sliver conversion of wool/polyester.tow is converted top. Two types of top are prepared in the industry itself others are obtained in top form already. The two kinds of top that are prepared are: 1. Polyester top (8.5 kg) 2. Wool top (10 kg) The other top that are retained in the top go down are:1. Flax top(linen top) 2. Viscose top 3. Silk top 4. Cashmere top 5. Acrylic top 6. Blended top 7. Camel hair top 8. Angora top 9. Mohair top 10. Lenzing top
Merino wool is imported from Australia, New Zealand and South Africa. Merino wool is considered to be the finest and best quality wool in the world.
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7.4. POLYESTER STAPLE FIBERS ARE USED IN THREE FORMS: 1. Sparkle- it has good luster properties .its c ross sectional view is tri-lobal 2. Normal - it is little dull in nature. Its c ross sectional view is round. 3. Low pill - it is highly brittle and breaks easily. Low pill fibers are weaker because their strength is reduced by 70% during the manufacturing stage itself so that the pills do not cling to the fabric surface and fall off easily. Since they are, weak they break off easily during twisting hence the speed of machine should not be too high therefore the productivity is less and the cost of manufacturing low pill fibers is high. The polyester material has the type or merge no. which is maintained in such a way that two different type or merge no should be mixed together while in process because of the dyeing affinity
7.5. SUPPLIER NAME S no
Industry
Industry address
Material
1.
RIL
Patalganga
Tow of PSF
Reliance industries
(ms) Surat gujarat
FFL
Chennai
PSF top
Nagda of M.P
VSF top
Australia
Greasy wool
2.
Futura fibers limited
3.
GIL Grasim industries limited
4.
DAL Dewavrin
5.
CDDL Compagnte
Greasy wool impirtion
de
lafned
6.
BEAPL
Australia
Greasy wool
Uruguay
Greasy wool
Belgium
Flax
Bwk elders Australia private limited
7.
RSA Rantex SA
8.
NV NV jos vannestesa
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top
and
greasy wool
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7.6. MACHINES MACHINE
BRAND
NO.
OF
OBJECTIVE
MACHINES BALE PRESS
Godrej
2
To pack the textile waste
FORK LIFT(diesel)
Godrej
2
Used
(capacity=2 ton)
to
dispatch
unload,
shift
materials
and and
machines FORK
LIFT(battery
operated)
Macknell
3
Used
(capacity=1.5 ton)
to
dispatch
unload,
shift
materials
and and
machines
7.7. BALE SPECIFICATIONS:FIBRE TYPE
WEIGHT( IN KG)
1. White sparkle and normal
700
2. Black sparkle and normal
350
3. Viscose
250
4. greige wool
200
5. tetra wool
200 *3=600
6. scoured wool`
150
7. top
120, 96
7.9. Raw material stock as on date (27.12.2010) CATEGORY
CAPACITY (IN TON)
TOTAL STOCK
1.psf
80
54.5
2.vsf
70
65.4
3.tow
180
185.9
4.gwl
120
236.0
5.swl
80
78.9
Total
530
560.7
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VSF- viscose staple fibre is a regenerated cellulosic fiber which is made from pulp generally it is doped by suppliers and is in fibrous form vsf are supplied from Grasim industries only. All the polyester and viscous received are in 2.0 d, 2.5 d, 1.5 d, 1.4 d, 0.8 d and lengthwise like 92 mm, 44 mm, 54 mm etc. Denier( it is making 9000 m yar n weight in gms) The polyester materials have a type or merge no which are maintained in such a way that two different types or merge should not be mixed together while in process because of the dyeing affinity.
Tow - tow is a continuous filament purchased for making blend with wool. In tow it is possible to get variable length needed from converter machine it is converted to polyester top.
Gwl - the greasy wool which is received from Australia, South America, South Africa in various micron value. It is merino wool which is suitable for making cloth greasy wool is supposed to be washed or scoured for the combing process w hich makes the wool top. Use psf/vsf- for grey dyed fabric vsf is directly purchased from Grasim industries(dope dyed) and psf is delivered to dyeing department for fiber dyeing mainly for vsf and psf pv / spinning . There they mix it in a certain ratio % for the pv fabric.
Daily average consumption of vsf -1.8 tons Daily average consumption of psf - 2.9 tons Department is having 21 workers, 2 staff and one officer . 7.10.
PROCESS PARAMETERS
1) UNLOADING:A. Done by Battery Forklift or Diesel Forklift. B.
By forklift with good condition rope.
C.
By manual.
2) DELIVERY:.
A.
By Battery or Diesel forklift.
B.
By tractor, By Hydraulic pallet & hand trolley.
C.
Using polythene sheet & Nylon bag.
3) LOADING:A.
By battery or diesel forklift.
B.
Systematic arrangements manually wherever necessary.
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C.
As per
the dispatch list
loading
the bale by forklift
and arranging in line
manually . 4) WASTE PACKING:A. 5)
Bale press using polypropylene sheet.
SORTING OF WASTE :Color
6)
wise matching soft waste and also white separately according to the shade chart
SEGREGATION A. Category wise B. Party wise C. Undesired material should not be mixed up with te xtile waste.
7)
NON MOVING WASTE:A. Sorted out nonmoving waste of six month. B. Inform to Commercial department, & GM
7.11.
WASTE DAILY RECEIPT
Total waste - 1631.77kg Department
Weight of waste
Waste percentage
Converter
18.88kg
1.16
Designing
9.04kg
0.55
Dyeing
53.47kg
3.28
Plush
65.26kg
3.99
PW spinning
95.63kg
5.86
Finishing
43.9kg
2.69
QC. Dept.
17.96Kg
1.01
Folding
105.52kg
6.47
Weaving
267.62kg
16.40
Grey combing
352.84kg
21.62
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PV spinning
181.44kg
11.12
Recombing
152.11kg
9.32
7.12.
PROCESSBFLOWCHART
7.13.
WASTE GODOWN
Few Waste items are kept at the back of raw material godown and the rest are stored outside the company premises . The following waste items are received from all the departments regularly
DEPARTMENT
WASTE
P/V spinning
P/ V Soft P/V Hard P/V Sweeping
P/W Spinning
T/W Soft
W/spinning
P/W Hard P/W Sweeping
Recombing
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T/W Soft
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R/C Noil R/C Sweeping Converter
All Wool Soft Tow sparkle soft Tow NP soft Tow BLK soft Tow Sweeping
Plush
Reging flock
Dyeing
Dyeing Soft
Grey Combing
All Wool Soft G/C first Noil G/C second Noil G/C first burr G/C second burr Shoddy Defective
Weaving (old and new)
W/G selvedge W/G mix hard W/G Sweeping
Plush
Plush Chhindies Raising flock
After receiving various wastes from the entire department it is segregated according to its category. Sorting and packing is done in bale press machine of all other category and sold to outside party.
7.14.
PROBLEMATIC AREA OBSERVED
After much surveillance and deep analysis we felt that the housekeeping of raw material godown was not satisfactory. Waste material was not conglomerated properly and were seen lying randomly. Even the segregation of buffer stock was not properly done according to specified rules and regulations. Raw material being one of the less tedious and less effort involving department was neglected in many regards
7.15.
SUGGESTIONS FOR IMPROVEMENT
Housekeeping department should be conduct periodic visits to check the hygiene and working conditions of raw material department.Techniques of motion economy can be applied to improve the productivity and efficiency for ex, tools used for opening the compressed bales should be kept at a particular fixed place which would avoid any confusion or ineffective time.
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8.
WOOL SCOURING
Raw wool contains a number of impurities which must be removed to facilitate yarn production or further processing. Generally there are three types of impurities present in raw wool (a) Natural - Natural impurities are produced by sheep itself. These are wool grease, lint and the ex-creation stains caused by the dung and urine. Kemps may be regarded as impurities in fine wool (b) Acquired -Acquired impurities are picking up by sheep such as sand, soil, dust, burrs, seed and grass. (c) Applied- Applied impurities are the impurities which are added to the coat of the sheep for identification of their own sheep. These impurities are color, oil etc
8.1. OBJECTIVE OF SCOURING To remove all these impurities without damaging the fiber. The fat of the wool forms emulsion with alkali and is removing during emulsion scouring. The suint is soluble in water and can be removed by a preliminary wash with hot water. The dirt and sand in the wool are removed during scouring by mechanical agitation. The grass and insoluble impurities are removed by carding, Gilling or combing process. In scouring there is loss in weight amounting to about 40%.
8.2. FIBER OPENING AND SCOURING PROCESS FLOWCHART
OBJECTICE
To open the wool for better cleaning
To avoid lumps formation.
After the fiber opening machine has total 6 bowls & their functions are as below 0
1. Bowl No.1 : To remove mud & impurities other than grease temp. of the bowl is 280 C.
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2. Bowl No.2 : This is the main functional Bowl & temp. is 650 will be removed. Melting pt. of the grease is 400
0
O
C , more than 90% grease
0
C & 650 C helps to melt grease &
other oily particles from the wool. 0 : Remaining mud, suint & grease is removed in this bowl & temp is 600 C.
3. Bowl No 3
Detergent “Alphox -200” is used in bowl no. 1 ,2 & 3 for the cleaning. Major part of the detergent is used in bowl no.2. Remaining 3 bowls are the rinsing bowls & only wash the wool & temp. are
4.
Blow No 4
0
: 550 c 0
5. Blow No 5 & 6 :500 c After every bowl there is a squeeze roller which squeezes the water & does not allow to go in next bowl. 0
After that 3 drying zones each have 2 drum types dryer & temp are 900 C.
8.3.
MACHINE PARTICULARS AND PROCESS DETAILS Tank No.
1
2
3
4
5
Capacity
2800
2800 liters
2800 liters
2800 liters
2800 liters
(Upper)
liters
Squeeze
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
4-5
% Grease
22 –30
5 –6
1 -1.5
1.0-0.9
0.2-0.6
%
17-24
3-4
0.4-0.7
0.3-0.4
0.2-0.3
60±2
58±2
56±2
54±2
50±2
Soda
Detergent
Detergent
Plain Water
Plain Water
7 –8
7 -8
7 -8
7 -8
Nil
Nil
Nil
Nil
pressure (Kg/cm2 )
Grease
Removal Temperature (°C) Chemicals
Ash
PH
8 –10
Amount of Scouring Agents Initial
Soda
10
(Kg)
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Initial
Nil
5
3
Nil
Nil
10
8
5
Plain water
Plain water
Detergent (Kg) Water (liters)
ADDITION AFTER EVERY 30 MINUTES Tank No.
1
2
3
4
5
Soda ash (Kg)
1
Nil
Nil
Nil
Nil
Detergent (Kg)
Nil
0.53
0.33
Nil
Nil
8.4. OTHER PARTICULARS Efficiency of The Machine – 40-80%. Production – 400-450(Kg/Hr) Power Consumption – 130 hp Dryer Temperatures Maintained Between 70 0 C to 11
8.5. VIGROUS PRINTING or VIGRO PRINTING Vigrous printing of top sliver is a recognized method for producing “Mélange effect ” on wool. It is carried out on a machine of very simple construction consisting of a gill box and the printing compartment. 10-16 bands of about 20 gm/m are combined in a gill to produce a uniform fleece with a draft of 1.4 –1.6. The material is fed to the printing rollers, which carry a relief pattern of diagonal strips. The dyestuff is transferred through a felt covered bowl by means of a rubber coated dipping roller.. The dye paste will impregnate the sliver coiled in the perforated cans, which are then placed in a steam autoclave for fixation of the dyes. The chemicals used for vigrous printing are Benzyl alcohol, Urea, Glycerin, Betafoam KS, and Formic Acid etc.
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9.
GREY COMBING DEPARTMENT
Grey combing is the process of removing short fibers, naps, pinpoints etc from the material for obtaining good quality of yarns. This process is done for the grey materials (which are not dyed e.g. 100% wool). in the grey combing, polyester top making as well as wool top making takes place. For this, wool is inspected for moisture regain and grease content % and then it is rendered for further processes. Polyester does not require any such checking. The grey combing department procures the raw material from the RMG department and the wool scouring department. grey combing is done for the grey fibers prior to dyeing .wool is checked for its grease content and moisture regain before going through the combing department polyester fibers are directly converted into tops in the convertor whereas wool goes through carding ,combing and gilling. Recombing is done for blends and dyed fibers.
9.1. OBJECTIVE OF COMBING a.
To remove short fibers , neps, pin points e tc from the material
b. For uniform blending of fiber c.
To remove dirts, dusts, foreign matter
d. To get good quality yarns.
Grey combing department is further departmentalized as: 1. Top godown is integrated with the grey combing department which facilitates easy commutation of tops and fibers. 2. Polyester top processing section- here polyester tows are directly converted into tops by the convertor machines 3. Wool top processing section- requires an additional passage of carding and combing to remove short fibers and any other impurities.
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9.2. DEPARTMENTAL HIERARCHY
GM Plant Incharge
GM Works
MANAGER
DY. MANAGER MAINTENANCE
DY. MANAGER N PLANNING, PROD & QUALITY
SHIFT INCHARGE
Assistant
Assistant
Blenders
Computer
Despatch
(3)
TECH. ASSISTANT 1/SHIFT
OFFICER
Fitter (3)
Oiler (1)
Helper (2) FITTER 1/SHIFT
OPERATOR 14/SHIFT
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HELPER 3/SHIFT
PACKER 2/SHIFT
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9.3. PROCESS FLOWCHART
From RMG
To RMG
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Page 29
9.4. MACHINES USED MACHINES
BRAND
NO.
OF
OBJECTIVES
MACHINES Carding
N.S.C
2
Individualize of fibers from tuft of fibers.
Kicks-out vegetable matters.
Attenuation of fibers into a strand of fibers which is called sliver.
Pre-gilling-1
N.S.C
2
and 2
Straightening
and
parallelization
of
fibers.
To increase evenness of sliver by means of doubling and drafting.
To apply antistatic agent and moistures in material if required.
Pre-gilling-3
N.S.C
1
Straightening
and
parallelization
of
fibers.
To increase evenness of sliver by means of doubling and drafting
Prepare suitable material to feed the combers.
Combing
N.S.C
11
To remove short fibers, neps, vegetable matters
Post gilling-1
N.S.C
1
Parallelization of fibers.
Straightening and
(GC4)
parallelization of fibers.
To increase the evenness of combed sliver by means of doubling & drafting.
To apply antistatic agent and moistures in material if required.
Post gilling -5
N.S.C
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1
Straightening and
Page 30
(GC5)
with
Parallelization of fibers.
coupled
press
To increase evenness of sliver by means of doubling and drafting
Convertor
N.S.C
1
To make bump tops
Conversion
of
filament
fibers
into
required cut length fibers.
Gilling
-3
N.S.C
1
Making strand of fibers (sliver).
Straightening and
with coupled press
Parallelization of fibers.
To increase evenness of sliver by means of doubling and drafting
To make bump tops
9.5. Wool carding-This is the next process after wool scouring. This process involves subjecting the fibres to the action of large number of pins in an attempt to separate each fibre from its neighboring fibre. This is necessary to facilitate further fibre manipulation and to remove impurities.
Objective
To separate each fiber from othe r with a minimum of fiber breakage.
To remove impurities and fiber entanglement
To mix the fiber together to provide a uniform distribution.
To form a bulky sliver in which fiber are aligned.
9.6. SEQUENCES OF CARDING M/C:Hopper In hopper the scoured wool are deposited up to the maximum level. Then the material goes to the feed roller by the help of lattice. At the top there is a comb. It combs the wool flock and allows the small size tuff forward. There is a striping roller which strips the wool fiber from the incline lattice.
Feed roller There are two rollers mounted. One is above and other is underneath. It helps the fiber to in to licker-in.
Licker-in
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The three pairs of worker and striper rollers are covered to the licker-in. At the side of the worker roller there is also a burr beater. The function of the burr beater is to remove burrs from the wool fiber.
Morel Burr Beater There are three roller device designed to eliminate vegetable impurities contain in the wool with minimum wool rejection. The moral transfer roller is fitted with a brush.
Waste Container There is also a conveyer belt in between feed roller and licker-in. It helps to take the burrs and waste and collect in the container.
Burr Beater All burrs beater in the card are equipped with covers and adjustable screen. The setting of screen determines the type and quality of impurities to be removed.
Stripper roller The main function of the striper roller is to remove the short fibres from the worker roller and returns to them to carrier roller.
Worker roller The object of worker roller is to perform a considerable fibre mixing and taking the fibre in the forward direction.
Main swift roller In cotton process it is called as main cylinder. It is equipped with wire for providing better opening of the fibre and improving their transfer to doffer. There are also four pairs of worker & striper roller around the swift roller. Opening and cleaning of the wool fibers is done between worker, stripper and cylinder.
Doffer The function of doffer is to paralyses the fibers. This doffer is gives the output in the web form.
Fancy roller It is of three rollers assembly. The special type wire is present on its surface. The main function of it is to penetrate the fiber in to the main swift wire which is coming out due to the action.
Transfer roller: This transfers the fibers from one carrier to another.
9.7. Process parameter of carding m/c Particulars
Speed
Diameter
Feed roller
0.82 m/min.
110-120 mm
Licker-in
21 m/min
1200mm
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Worker
21 m/min
1st transfer roller
38 m/min.
314mm
2nd transfer roller
135 m/min.
310mm
Calendar roller
80m/min
-
Delivery speed
120m/min.
-
Out put delivery
25+-2gm
-
Ratios Doffer to delivery: 1:2 Doffer to swift : 1:10 Carding is followed by 3 stages gilling which aims at the removal of short fibers and better penalization. The entanglement of fiber and undesired elements like slubs, neps, and pin point are reduced. The next process is 2 stage combing whose basic objects include removal of short fibers non fibers impurities, neps, slubs, and straightening and parallelization of long fibers. The final stage includes 2 stages gilling, from where it is later transported to the bumpress which converts slivers into tops of 10 kg.
9.8. FACTS AND STATISTICS Draft (Ratio between cylinder and output) = max 2 Input weight = 22.5 micron Production/day = 2.5 ton Input = 1700 kg Output = 2000 kg Linear density = 24 gm/meter Anti-static =0.2% ISO 9000, 14000 (safety standards) 9.9. Polyester top making
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In the polyester top making, converter is very significant. It cuts down the polyester tow of continuous filament into certain length, which undergoes tension, falling , coiling etc thus deposited as slivers. In the g-c machine there is an automatic knotting machine is present. After keeping certain length of sliver, of sliver in to the can the can goes to packing zone automatically. Two compressors are there by which they press the material in to smaller size then by the automatic knotting machine, it ties this package. This package is known as top.
9.10.
PROCESS PARAMETERS OF CONVERTER
Denier type
2den
2.5 den
3 den.
Tow doubling
2
2
2
Speed in m / min.
275
275
275
Front roller pressure
200- 250
200-250
200-250
21+- 1
21+- 1
21+- 1
in kg. Delivery wrapping in gm /m.
9.11.
GILLING MACHINE
Objective
Parallelization of fibers.
Reduction in wt per unit length of sliver.
Improving uniformity of sliver.
Removal of short fibers.
9.12.
DIFFERENT COMPONENTS OF THE MACHINE
DRAFTING HEAD Drafting head has two part-Top parts and a bottom part. Top part is called as top
caterpillar and bottom part is called as bottom caterpillar . FALLER INSTALLATION The GC-14 head comprises 72 right and 72 left faller. The fallers are moves in alternately one are in right and one is to left
SPRAY DEVICE This device permits to apply the spray solution through nozzle. This is placed between the drafting roller and coiler. The liquid is brought to the nozzle under pressure.
AUTO LEVELLER
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At the machine input the feed web is measured by mechanically controlled roller system. The web section variations are registered in form of a memory wheel having certain number of memory rods. At the precise moment that these variations arrive at the draft zone, the memory transmits the pre-registered values to a variation by the way of "reader arm". By sift of belt the speed of the back roller increases or decreases according to the requirement. Due to this speed variation the draft increases or decreases and obtained the regular/uniform delivery sliver.
FOR GILL BOX - 1 Make - NSC
Model - GC-14
Department - Polyester
Denier type
2 den
2.5 den
3 den
Doubling
8
8
8
Faller density
4R
4R
4R
Delivery wrapping in
24+-1
24+-1
24+-1
300
300
300
Doubling
6
6
6
Faller density
5F
5F
5F
Delivery wrapping in
24+-1
24+-1
24+-1
Ratch in mm
40
40
40
Speed in m / min
300
300
300
Doubling
6
6
6
Faller density
5F
5F
5F
Delivery
24+-1
24+-1
24+-1
Ratch in mm
45
45
45
Top weight
8.5+- 0.3
8.5+- 0.3
8.5+- 0.3
gm / m Speed in m / min GILL BOX – 2
gm / m
GILL BOX - 3
wrapping
in gm / m
Then the slivers collected from 6-7 containers are fed into 3 passage gilling machine. The tow led in the machine undergoes a tension, an opening, a cutting, a draft through fallers and is deposited in form of continuous slivers. The machine winds the certain sliver length and tied it with thread to form the top. Then the top is disposed outside. Polyester top weighs 8.5 kg.
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10. DYEING DEPARTMENT The dyeing department is to deliver dyed fiber to Recombing Department, and to PV Spinning Department dyed fabric to either Mending Department or Finishing Department, in required shade at required time. Dyeing is employed to give an all over shade to fiber and fabric. There are mainly two types of blends produced and dyed.
Polyester/wool
Polyester/viscose
All wool
The materials are dyed in further different forms as under:-
10.1.
TOP DYEING
The prepared tops come from the Grey combing department which is pressed in the carrier by the help of top press m/c. There are many type of carriers having deferent capacities i.e. 10 kg ,20kg, 50 kg ,100kg, 200kg.. The loaded tops in carrier are load in to the vertical HTHP dyeing m/c by the Crain. The maximum Crain capacity is 10 tones. After loading the tops, the lid of the m/c is closed automatically. The dye solution and other required chemicals come in to the m/c automatically after giving the instruction from the control room because “Automatic Dosing System ” works in the mill. The dyeing and other treatment periods depends upon the shade. For light shade 4.5 hrs, for medium shade 4.5 hrs and for dark shade 5 hrs. For wool dyeing, they are using metal complex and acid dye. For polyester they are using disperse dye. After dyeing they are doing RC for removal of surface dye which are mechanically attached on the surface of the material After completing of dyeing process the material comes out and goes to Hydro extractor for drying Hear 40% of water is removed from material. After this the material goes to RF dryer for 100%
drying. These dried materials are kept as stock for further processing i.e. re-combing. On an average approx 1760 shade are being processed in the department that goes into production.
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10.2.
PROCESS FLOW CHART
TOP DYEING
FIBER DYEING
WHITE POLYESTER TOPS
WHITE GREY TOPS FROM
FROM GREY COMBING
GREY COMBING
TOP PRESSING
TOP PRESSING
HTHP DYEING
HTHP DYEING
COLOR FATSNESS TESTING
COLOR FATSNESS TESTING
(QC)
(QC)
HYDRO EXTRACTO
RF DRYING
HYDRO EXTRACTOR
RF DRYING
BLENDING AND SHADE
SHADE APPROVAL BY
MATCHING
QC
DELIVERY TO RECOMBING
FIBER STAMPING
HTHP DYEING
COLOR FASTNESS TESTING (QC)
HYDRO EXTRACTOR
RF DRYING
BLENDING WITH DOPE DYED VISCOSE & SHADE MATCHING
DELIVERY TO P/V SPINNING
FINAL SHADE APPROVAL BY
DELIVERY TO P/W or P/V
DESIGNING
WORSTED SPINNING
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WHITE POLYESTER FIBER
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FABRIC DYEING WHITE PW HEAT SET PIECES FROM FSG
CHEESE DYEING
WHITE PV GREY PIECES
WHITE CHEESE FROM WINDING WHITE PERCH (LOT
SCOURING & DRYING
ARRANGEMENT)
PRESSING HTHP DYEING
HEAT SETTING (FSG)
POLYESTER DYEING ROPE OPENING
WHITE PERCH (LOT ARRANGEMENT)
DRYING ON STENTER
DYED PERCH
VISCOSE DYEING POLYESTER DYEING
ROPE OPENING
COLOR FASTNESS TEST (QC)
VISCOSE DYEING
HYDRO EXTRACTOR DRYING
PERCHING
RF DRYER
SWATCH PREPARATION AND SHADE CHECKING SHADE/ FASTNESS APPROVAL (QC)
SHADE APROVL BY DSG/QC DELIVERY TO WARPING
DELIVERY TO FSG
FINAL SHADE APPROVAL IN FOLDING
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10.3.
FIBER DYEING
The fibres in the bale form brought from the RMG dept. After covering the basket with nylon fabric, it is filled with required amount fibres and compressed with the stamping machine by applying of the water. The prepared material is shifted to vertical dyeing machine for dyeing. Here only polyester fibres are dyed. After loading the basket the lid of the m/c is closed automatically. The dye solution and other required chemicals come in to the m/c automatically after giving the instruction from the control room. After dyeing they are doing RC for removal of surface dye which is mechanically attached on the surface of the material. After completing of dyeing process the material comes out and goes to Hydro extractor for drying. After this, material goes to RF dryer for 100% drying. These dried materials are going to PV department for further processing.
10.4.
CHEESE DYEING/YARN DYEING
For cheese dyeing they are making special type of package in the winding section. For producing this cheese they are using wire spring. The density of the package is less than general package due to the better penetration of the dye solution. Density is 0.35 to 0.75 gm/cc. According to the carrier capacity the number of cheese s are filled in the spindle. It is then feed to the vertical dying machine by the help of Crain. After loading the material the lid of the m/c is closed automatically. The dye solution and other required chemicals come in to the m/c automatically after giving the instruction from the co ntrol room. . After dyeing they are doing RC for removal of surface dye which are mechanically attached on the surface of the material After completing of dyeing process the material comes out and goes to cheese Hydro extractor(1360 rpm) for drying. After this, material goes to RF dryer for 100% drying. These dried materials are going to warping sect ion for further processing.
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10.5.
PIECE DYEING/FABRIC DYEING
As far as the fabric dyeing is concerned, the dyeing process is carried out either by one bath process or by two bath process. If the dyeing is carried out in the one bath process, then the dyes used are of combination type i.e., either disperse and reactive combination or disperse and acid combination. In the case of two-bath process, the polyester component is first dyed in the jet dyeing m/c and the wool/viscose component is dyed in the jigger dyeing m/c. The dyeing of polyester material is done on the basis of the high temperature and high pressure dyeing method whereas the wool/viscose dyeing is carried out on the basis of t he conventional method. The general method of doing the production work starts from procuring the material from various departments as per the planning obtained from the PPD section and then planning for the dyeing schedules as per the weight of the material, the type of the shade, amount of the shade, form of the dyeing process and the delivery schedule of the order to other department. After planning all these things the sample is sent to the laboratory to predict the most appropriate recipe that can be used to obtain shade given. If the sample is already dyed in the section before, then from the previous records the recipe is taken out and then used. If it is nearby to an old shade, then a new recipe is created from the old recipe that is available. The laboratory is equipped with three beaker dyeing m/c and a colour matching cabinet. The dyes are prepared with 0.25 % concentration and they are kept in stock in the laboratory and as well as the chemicals in the ir respective concentrations too. When the recipe is finalized, the recipe is transformed to the shop floor for bulk production and the lab to bulk variation is maintained between a percentage range of 5 to 10. Before dyeing, the fabric is heat set in the stenter and after dyeing in the jet, they are opened from the rope form using the fabric opener and they are dried in the stenter again. For small lots & special shades, sample dyeing m/c is used. The material handling inside the dyeing section is very less.
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The dyeing of PET is done at 130°C; wool at 90°C and viscose at 60 to 70°C. For single bath dyeing of P/W blends, the dyeing temperature of PET component is set at 120°C, since wool cannot withstand more than 115°C. So a wool protecting agent is added.
Oil from pipe + blower from the motor
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fabric passing
fabric drying
Page 41
VISCOSE DYEING IN JIGGER
Check DMF for heavy
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Page 42
10.6.
AUTO COLOUR SERVICE SYSTEM MODELS
The dyeing section is also equipped with a control room in which close monitoring of the dyeing process is done, i.e. all the dyeing machines (except jiggers) are connected to the control room through PLCs (Programmable Logic Controllers). By this, the temperature, pressure inside the dyeing machine and liquor level inside the machine is maintained. Also by this system the liquor circulation, pH check, process alarms can be possible.
This PLCs are linked with the color service section or color dosing system so that whenever any addition of dye or chemical is done, the call off is sent to the color service and either TRS, or DAP or
DLV will come into function and the required material is fed into the machine. In the dyeing section, various dyeing programs are made and stored in the control room. The dyeing programmers are made depending upon
the substrates to be dyed,
shade to be dyed and
the blend to be used and
the quality of a fabric.
Depending on the conditions and the requirements, the necessary program is selected and then assigned for a particular lot and then sent to the color service system. In this way, production is carried out in the dyeing section. The dosing of dyes, chemical and water is done automatically using a dye and chemical dosing system called Color System. The color service consists of three dosing machines by names viz. TRS, DAP and DLV. The TRS is used for dosing dyes and DAP or Distribution of Anhydrous Product and DLV is used for dosing chemicals. All the dyeing machines are provided with two pipelines for the dosing of pipes and chemicals. A discipline of dosing liquids in one pipeline and powders through another pipeline is maintained. The dyes and chemicals are stored in separate storage tanks and they are taken out as required using suction and then fed into the dyeing machine using compressed air.The advantage of this system is that exact amount of dyes and chemicals are added into the dyeing machines with precision and control.
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10.7.
TRS (Transfer of residual
into solution) is widely used in case of colors. This is a color rating method and the machine
is
computer linked with all other machines. The coloring unit is equipped with sensors.
The working of TRS- TRS consists of 72 tanks (each containing different dyes). When the program is fed into the computer the required quantity of dye is weighed and poured into the container. Then through the roller conveyors it travels to the first unit and remains until the last container has transferred to the second unit. In the first unit the dyes are dissolved properly and then it is transferred to the distributor through suction pipes from where it is distributed to the respective dyeing unit. Then the empty container is transferred to another unit where the container is washed properly. After that it is again send fo r collecting next programmed dyes. This way cycle is r epeated.
10.8.
DLV(Distribution of Liquor in Volume ):
The working of DLV - DLV is used for distributing chemicals to the respective dyeing unit in liquid form. It distributes three types of chemicals: pretreatment chemicals, dyeing chemicals, and after dyeing chemicals. DLV consists of two parts,
one is the doser which is used to collect the required amount of chemicals from the tanks through pipes and
The second one is the distributor which sends these chemicals to the respective dyeing units.
It is also connected to computer in which different programs are fed according to light, medium, dark and extra dark shades. The required amount of chemicals is determined according to the weight of the dyes.
Automatic color selection Pc1-start the machine
Pc2-color selection
color to dye the cloth, chemical to
wash the cloth Dissolving Unit NIFT HYDERABAD
dyes distributor
to all the machine Page 44
10.9.
SAMPLE DYEING UNIT
The sample dyeing unit consists of automatic color and chemical dispensing machine made in in Italy. This is a computerised automatic machine . The program is fed and the machine starts automatically. The micro- powder is weighed and mixed with hot water (60oC to 79oC) for 60secs to prepare 1g/lt of the solution. Then this dye solution is transferred to the sample pots (120 pots) and required quantity is pipette in the tube. Then in the super lab, frame (equipped with chip reader) containing four samples are loaded. Then the solution is passed through it until the solution is discolored. To remove the excess dye, the solution absorbed by the fabric on the surface, reduction cleaning is done. Reduction cleaning is achieved by using oxidizing agent. Sample dyeing is mainly done to match the color with respect to the customer order or party order. The four sample prepared in this process is send to supplier, sales department, industry itself and one is kept for testing purpose. The cost of the machine was 2.5 crores.
10.10.
MACHINES USED IN THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF DYEING:
FIBRE / TOP / CHEESE DYEING MACHINE
BRAND
NO.
TYPE Fibre
Dalal
1
Stamping of polyester staple fibre in carrier for dyeing.
Top Press
Dalal
HTHP Dyeing
Dalal,
Calico,
4
Pressing of Polyester, Wool tops in carrier.
34
Dyeing of Polyester staple fibres, Polyester
Sanjay D. Parikh
Tops, Wool Tops, and Cheese. 6
extractor R/F Dryer
OBJECTIVE
MACHINES
Stamping
Hydro
OF
Removal of excess moisture from fibres, tops, cheeses.
Strayfeild
3
Final Drying of all the fibre, top & cheese dyed material
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PIECE DYEING
MACHINE
BRAND
No. of machine
OBJECTIVE
True shape
4
Inspection of white as well as dyed fabric for
TYPE Perching machine
any abnormality. On the same machine, lot are arranged for dyeing
Overflow Soft
Dalal
2
flow
Mainly used for dyeing of poly / wool blends. Some soft flow machines (e.g. Brazzoli33 & 34) are used for dyeing of poly/viscose blends.
Rapid Jet
Calico
1
Dyeing of Poly / viscose blends.
Rope opener
Delta
1
Opening of poly / wool blends Opening of poly / viscose blends
electrode Platter
Calico
1
Jigger
Harish
4
1.
Used for dyeing of viscose with reactive dyes
2.
Used for washing of poly/wool & poly / viscose fabrics
Stenter
S.M ltd.
1
Drying of fabrics.
Sample Dyeing
R.B.
4
Dyeing of samples for development, trial
Machines
electronic
10.11.
purpose.
NOTES
Types of dyes are used:
Disperse dyes - it is used in HTHP (high temperature and high pressure) dyeing machine. o
Temperature maintained is about 135 C. O
Reactive dyes- temperature maintained is 100 C and pH value is 11.2.
Forosol dyes - this dye is also known as Foro dyes. It is a mixture dye for P/W, synthetics .It is used for light shades, and pH m aintained is 4 to 5.
Following dyes are used for:
All wool - acid dyes, chrome or reactive dyes ,metal complex and direct dyes.
Polywool - disperse dyes + metal complex + color for the material.
Polyester- disperse dyes.
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Polyviscose- disperse +direct (Forosol for light and medium colors) and double bath (for dark colors).
Viscose- vat dyes.
Type of heating done in the Stenter machine is thermo pack heating of the fabric and perching. In the machine, there is application of pressure for blowing heat. sometimes defects like moonmark is formed during heating, which is most common for lighter fabric. To avoid this , the fabric is fixed with handle brushes at the selvedges. Before going through stentor machine, fabric is passed through suction pipe. The fabric width should be at least 150 cm. the speed of stentor for drying P/V is in between 16 to 18 whereas, for P/W it ranges between 18, 20 and 25. The two rollers in the jigger dyeing machine runs at 20-40 m/sec For delicate materials, soft-flow machine is used to avoid distortion of fibres. 0
Generally, the polyester fabric is processed under high temperature (130 C). it is having impurities in white powder called OLIVOMERS which are removed at high temperatures. HTHP machines runs with the high speed of 400 rpm, these machines require 2 min to complete 1 cycle. Anti-cross staining agents are used to protect woo l and polyester from each other. In rapid jet machine material and liquor both moves but in jigger machine only material moves and both edges of the material are stitched. Besides glauber salt, sodium hydrosulphite is also used in the dyeing. The storage tank for the salt has capacity 1000 kgs. In piece dyeing, plater is mostly used for opening the gathering of polyester viscose. This machine requires 3 labor. But rope opener is used for opening the polywool. Wool protecting agent used is lavasyn. A piece length which is dyed is 110 to 120m long. machine capacity:
8 pieces- Brazzoli 32
6 pieces- Brazzoli 32
4 pieces- Overflow(1,2), jet back, Sanjay 4
3 pieces- Rapid jet
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Page 47
11. RECOMBING DEPARTMENT The Recombing department delivers recombed tops to PV and Worsted Spinning Departments in Chhindwara, Jalgaon & outside in full quantity at required time. The minimum cost meeting all quality parameters. The department is responsible for the conversion of the dyed and grey tops are to recombed tops.
11.1.
DEPARTMENTAL HIERARCHY
PLANT INCHARGE
GM WORKS
HOD (DY. MANAGER)
PLANNING
ASST. MANAGER
ASSISTANTS
PRODUCTION
EXECUTIVE
EXECUTIVE
ASSISTANT
ASSISTANT
WORKMEN WORKMEN BLENDING
NIFT HYDERABAD
MAINTENANCE
WORKMEN
WORKMEN PACKING & DESPATCH
Page 48
11.2.
OBJECTIVES OF THE DEPARTMENT
Blending of the fibers viz. wool, viscose, polyester, Lenin, silk, etc.
Removal of short fibers. and undesired elements like slubs, neps, and pin point
Removal of entanglement at the time o f dyeing.
11.3.
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PROCESS FLOW CHART
Page 49
MACHINES
BRAND
NO. OF
OBJECTIVES
MACHINES
LENGTHWISE
NSC
4
DEFELTER
To defelt the wool, which became very much felted after dyeing.
To apply wool lubricating oil for smooth working in further process.
To make uniform length for proper blending
BLENDING DEFELTER
NSC
5
To blend polyester & wool component homogeneously in required composition.
PRE COMBING
NSC
To apply antistatic oil in blend material.
To open and parallelize the material.
To parallelize and homogeneous
4
mixing of fibers
GILLING –1
PRE COMBING
NSC
4
GILLING –2
To parallelize and homogeneous mixing of fibers.
To apply antistatic oil and moistures in material, if required.
PRE COMBING GILLING –3
NSC
2
To parallelize and homogeneous mixing of fibers.
To prepare suitable material for feeding to combers
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Page 50
NSC
RECOMBING
26
To remove short fibers, neps, pin points, foreign matters,
leading & trailing hooks from the material
POST COMBING
NSC
GILLING - 1
4
To apply antistatic oil and moisture to material.
To parallelize and homogeneous mixing of fibers.
The fibers are checked for quality parameters like anti-static content , blend composition and eveness %
PROCESS PARAMETERS FOR BLENDING DEFELTER (WHITE)
11.4. Line A
No of machine : 1 Model: -D-2GC 14 Make:-NSC Year: - 1994 HP: - 17.02 Specification:-Chain gill box Type of materials
White
Feed wrapping gm / m
24 P + 25 W
Doubling
5 Poly + 4 Wool
Total feed gm / m
210 - 220
Draft given in De felter
1.2 - 1.4
Funnel diameter in mm
20
Delivery speed m / min
200 - 225
Spray gm / m
75 +/- 5
PROCESS PARAMETERS OF PRE COMB GILL 1 & 2
11.5. Model: - GC 14 Make:-NSC Year: - 1994
HP: - 13.4, 14.4
Specification:-Chain gill box
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Type of material
White (GA1)
White (GA2)
Count (Nm)
32/48/56/60/66/70/80
24/32/48/56/60/66/70
Feed wrapping gm /m
28
28
Doubling
8
10
Total feed in gm
224
280
Draft
8
8.2
Faller pins / cm
4R
4F
Ratch in mm
42 – 45
40 - 45
Delivery speed in m /min
200-225
200-225
Pressure in kg
200-250
200-250
Delivery wrap in gm / m
28
34(17 x2)
PROCESS PARAMETERS OF COMBER
11.6. Model:-PB 33LF Make:-NSC
Year: - 1994 HP: - 6.23 Comber type : Rectilinear Can Diameter:- 700 mm.
DYED SECTION (RC3) 11.7.
PROCESS PARAMETERS FOR LENGTH WISE DEFELTER
Make: - NSC Model: - D2GN 6 Year:-1994 Specification: - screw gill box It is same as gill box but before faller there is two drafting roller. These rollers have deferent speed. Due to this draft the materials which are felted at the time of dyeing are defelted.
11.8.
PROCESS PARAMETERS FOR BLENDER
Model: - DUO TR GC-15 Make:-NSC
Year:-2001
Specification: - chain gill box Type of materials
Dyed
Dyed
% of blend
55+45
65+35
Count in Nm
60/70
32/48/56/60
Delivery speed m / min
275 -300
275-300.
Oil concentration
10 %
10%
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Page 52
Spray gm / m
11.9.
70
70
PROCESS PARAMETERS FOR COMBER
Model:-PB 31LF Make:-NSC Year: - 1994 Type of materials
Dyed
Dyed
Dyed
Count in Nm
48 /56
60 /70
56/32/34
Blend code
360/365
262/276/370&mix
535/981
shade
% Blend 11.10.
65P , 35w
55p, 45w
75p, 25w
PROCESS PARAMETERS FOR POST GILL
Model:-GC-14 Make:-NSC Year: - 1994 Specification: - Chain gill box Feed wrapping in gm /m
20
Out put wrapping in gm / m
20
Doubling
8
Faller pin density
6F
Funnel diameter in mm
20
Delivery speed m /min.
200-225
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12. P/V SPINNING Spinning is the process in which we can produce yarn from fiber .The raw material of this department are polyester and viscose fibers which are coming RMG Department or dyeing department. For white yarn formation white color viscose and polyester come from RMG Department. For colored yarn the dope dyed viscose fibers come from RMG department and colored polyester come from the dyeing department.
12.1.
DEPARTMENTAL HIERARCHY
GM PLANT INCHARGE
GM(Works)
HOD (Manager)
Manager
Planning.
Maintenance.
Dy. Manager ( 1 )
D . Mana er 1
Production, Quality. Officer (1) Planning Clerk 1 Asst. Manager ( 2)
D.E.O(2)
Clerk ( 6)
Preparatory Spinning Section. NIFT HYDERABAD
Shift.
Post Spinning
Workmen
General Shift.
Workmen
Page 54
12.2.
PROCESS FLOWCHART FOR P/V SPINNING
12.3.
BLOW ROOM
The blow room has three lines a.
Chute feed with 4 cards
b. Lap feed with 6 cards c.
Lap feed with 4 cards
There are two feed systems in blow room
Chute feed
Lap feed 1. Firstly, the raw material is coming from RMG /dying department to p/v spinning department in bale form, then opening of polyester and viscose fibers are done. 2. They add some oil for decreasing static charge and add binding agent among polyester fibers. 3. Then conditioning i of polyester fibres is carried out for 24 hrs. This mixing is done manually. Then they prepare the layers of polyester and viscose. Polyester and viscose layer mix according to their required percentage.
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4. Then materials are fed to the 2nd MBO for mixing the P/V homogeneously and open the tuffs. Then the materials go to the 3rd MBO for better cleaning and opening. Then the materials go to the scutcher for lap formation. But in LINE- 2. The materials which are coming from the 3rd MBO direct go to carding m/c as chute feed.
12.4.
COMPARISON BETWEEN LAP FEED & CHUTE FEED
CHUTE FEED
LAP FEED
1. In chute feed the production is more
1. Here the production as compare to the chute is less.
2. Here if we required maintenance of any m/c
2. But here if any m/c will show problem in blow
or any m/c show some problem, then the next
room then the stock laps can be use in carding
m/c will remain stop.
m/c.
3. In chute feed system all carding m/c will work
3. In lap feed system different types of blends can
for same blend of materials.
be done in different carding m/c.
4. In chute feed material feed is uniform. So
4. Here the variation is more.
variation in sliver is less.
12.5.
PASSAGE OF MBO:-
Feed
12.6.
Feed
Incline
Evener
Stripping
PASSAGE OF CARDING :-
Feed roller
Tacker in
Can
Main cylinder
Coiler roller
12.7.
PASSAGE OF THE DRAW FRAME
Creel
Feed roller
NIFT HYDERABAD
Draft roller
Flats
Callendar roller
Trumpet
Coiler roller
Doffer
Trumpet
Can
Page 56
12.8.
PASSAGE OF THE SPEED FRAME:
Max head of the m/c – 120
Creel
Back roller
Trumpet
Pressure foot
Bobbin
12.9.
Middle roller
Flayer
Drafting a ron
Front roller
RING FRAME
Spindle capacity: - (16 X 480) + (2 x 144) = 7968 in PV section
PASSAGE OF RING FRAME
Creel
Guide bar
Back roller
Middle roller
Tradle box
Bobbin
Traveller
Baloon braker
Lapet eye
Front roller
12.10.
AUTO CONER
No of head: - 60 The main object of this auto coner is to prepare bigger package from smaller bobbin package and removes the yarn faults like thick and thin place and also week place. The cops are steamed and then rewound on Autoconer 138 having 60 spindles. The winding speed is around 600m/min giving cross-wound package. Air splicing is done here and usually the splice strength is 95% of the single yarn strength and the yarn dia. of 1.2 times the seed yarn. The machine is equipped with Loepfe
NIFT HYDERABAD
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yarn clearer, which works on the photo electric principle. The clearer curve setting is done so as to remove the objectionable faults. The machine has two splicer which traverses in between 10 spindles. The package produces weighs about 2 Kg each. The department has three Autoconer winding machine similar to that with the PW department and one Muratec Mach Coner of 60 spindle capacities. The yarn tension in Machconer is reduced by Balcon balloon breakers which adjust its position depending upon the position of the unwinding of the ring cop. It’s an automatic win der with individual spindle driving type performing one cycle of yarn joining in 9 seconds. The winding speed, which can be achieved, is around 1200 m/min but here speed is kept around 800 m/min. They are mounted with yar n clearer.
12.11.
PASSAGE OF THE AUTO CONER
Bobbin
Pre-cleaner
Package
Winding drum
Gate feeler
Splicer
Tensioner
Slub catcher
Waxing
Yarn trap
The packages which are parallel wound in ply winding m/c are twisted on TFO. The machine runs between 8000-10500 rpm for twist ranging between 17-24 TPI. Finally this wound yarn is send to New double yarn room from where it is send to weaving as per requirement.
12.12.
TFO (TWO FOR ONE)
The packages which are parallel wound in ply winding m/c are twisted on TFO. The machine runs between 8000-10500 rpm for twist ranging between 17-24 TPI. Finally this wound yarn is send to New double yarn room from where it is send to weaving as per re quirement.
Package from ply
Winding roller
Package
NIFT HYDERABAD
Spindle
Winding roller
Balloon breaker
Travers guide
Guide
Stop motion device
Page 58
For setting the twist and preventing anti-snarling the yarn are steamed after every twist insertion stage. ELGI WELKER steaming machine are there in the departments.
12.13.
MACHINES:
MACHINES
BRAND
NO.
OF
OBJECTIVES
MACHINES
MIXING
Lakshmi
4
Opening of viscose & polyester.
Conditioning polyester,
of &
viscose spraying
& of
polyester.
Opening of bigger lumps of viscose & polyester into smaller uniform lumps.
BLOW ROOM
BATLIBOI.
3
To convert the material into a uniform sheet called lap.
To feed properly opened & uniform material to the cards.
To eliminate hard chips of fibers & foreign material.
CARDING
Lakshmi
14
Individualization of the fibers
Removal of short fibers, foreign matters, hard chips from the material.
Make the uniform material sheet into a sliver form
To get uniform weight per unit length of the sliver
DRAWFRAME
Lakshmi
9
(4 finisher
To parallelize and attenuate the card sliver
4 breaker 1auto leveler )
To get the uniform sliver by doubling the slivers.
NIFT HYDERABAD
Autolevelling
Page 59
RING FRAME
Lakshmi
24
22 x 480=10560 2 x 144=288
To convert roving into a uniform yarn.
Total=10848
To
insert
twist
of
required
amount for different counts.
spindles
To get the required count & evenness
SCHLAFHORST
AUTOCONER
5
5 x 60= 300 drum
To eliminate yarn defects from the ring yarn.
To wind ring frame yarn onto cheeses (Bigger packages).
to get better quality of splice.
ASSEMBLY
PEASS METLER
5
To make two ply yarn.
WINDING
and
2 x 84= 168
To wind auto cleared yarn on ply
FADIS
2 x 120=240
tubes.
1 x 36= 36 Total=444 spindles TWO
FOR
ONE
TWIST
PRERNA
17
STAR
15 x 130=1950
VOLKMANN
2 x 156=312 5 x 144=720
To get the quality double yarn after insertion of proper twist.
To wind ply yarn on cheeses (Bigger packages)
11 x 160=1760 Total=4742 spindles ELGI WELKER
1
STEAMING
To prevent anti- snarling
To set the twist
MACHINE 12.14.
MORE ABOUT P/V SPINNING
Polyester viscose blend is a very cost e ffective blend.
Property of viscose is almost similar to that of cotton the blend improves functional property. Spinning of 100% polyester is not possible (as no moisture is there) due to antistatic charge generated in polyester..
PRODUCTION : 4000 to 5500 kg per day WASTE PERCENTAGE: 7% to 8
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13. WORSTED SPINNING DEPARTMENT The main aim of the worsted spinning department is to deliver single /double yarn to Yarn room in full quantity at required time with minimum cost, meeting all quality parameters.
13.1.
DEPARTMENTAL HIERARCHY
GM PLANT INCHARGE
GM (Works) HOD (Sr. Mgr.)
Manager
Asst. Managers (2)
Maintenance
Section-in-charges Ring frame & Auto winding
Doubling Dy.Manager Pre . & Auto
Shift Officer / Supervisor (Preparatory)
Asst. Manager (Doubling) Shift Officer
Dy.Manager Ply & TFO
Staff- 2 Shift Officer / Supervisor (Ring Frame T3 & Auto)
Dy. Manager
Warping / Planning
Dy. Manager Doubling
Fitter / D. Yarn Checker / Worker
3 x 1 per Shift Fitter / S. Yarn Checker / Worker Shift Officer / Supervisor (Ring Frame T1 & T2)
Fitter / Fitter Helper / Clg. Gang
Prodn. Entry Clerk 3 x 3 er Shift Data Entry Operator - 2 General Shift
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13.2.
PROCESS FLOW
PROCESS FLOW FOR A & B LINE
Recombed tops from Recombing (To be taken for process only after the testing & approval of quality parameter against standard Norms)
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FOR LINE C
Additional passage for fine count material (56Nm and above), Single weft material and 100% wool materials.
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Page 63
MACHINES Vertical
Gill
MAKE
NUMBER
NSC
1
FUNCTION
Additional passage for fine count material (56Nm and above), 24, 32Nm, Single weft
Box (GV20):
material and 100% wool materials.
To provide even draft distribution.
To make uniform length in each can as per number of doubling for proper run out.
To make Sliver even by means of doubling.
To Produce wrapping (weight / unit length) as per requirement
Rubber
NSC
3
Additional passage for fine count material
Finisher
(56Nm and above), Single weft material
(FM5P):
and 100% wool materials.
To provide even draft distribution.
To make uniform length in each can as per number of doubling for proper run out.
To make Sliver even by means of doubling.
To Produce wrapping (weight / unit length) as per requirement
Roving Machine
NSC
7
/
Rubbing
To produce wrapping (weight / unit length) as per requirement.
Machine
To give required twist/rub to avoid stretch during unwinding in ring frame.
To produce a package suitable for subsequent machine.
To make uniform length in each package as per requirement of next machine for proper run-out.
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Page 64
TEXTOOL,
62
COGNETEX
Ring frame
To produce single yarn of required twist and count as per the instruction from PPD.
To produce good quality of yarn.
To make ring cops by means of building mechanism.
To impart dimensional stability to single yarn which will help in smooth and snarl free running of yarn on next machine i.e. Machconer
Machconer/
MURATA,
Padmatex
PADMATEX
9
To remove objectionable faults available in the yarn and splice the yarn properly
Automatic
after fault removal and bobbin change.
Winders:
To produce a fault free package suitable for subsequent machine.
Ply winding
PEASS
5
To wind
two single yarn of
required
shade and count ,as per the instruction
METTLER
from PPD
department , parallel on a
package suitable for subsequent machine
Two For One
PRERNA
48
Twister
To twist the two parallel wounded yarn from the ply package as per the TPI (twist per inch) instructed by PPD.
Double Steaming
Yarn
R.B.
3
ELECTRONI-CS
To impart dimensional stability to double yarn which will help in smooth and snarl free running of yarn on next machine i.e. warping and weaving.
Precision
PEASS
Propeller
METTLER
1
To make soft package of double yarn suitable for cheese dyeing.
winder
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13.3.
GILLING
To get the required parallelization and fineness we are generally 4 passage of gilling. There are 3 lines each having 4 gilling machines.
OBJECTS OF GILLING
To parallelize and mixing of fibers.
To apply wool lubricating oil if needed for smooth working in further process.
To make uniform length in each can as per number of doubling for proper run out.
To make Sliver even by means of doubling.
To Produce wrapping (weight / unit length) as per requirement
NSC GV 20 It is vertical gilling machine. This is 4-delivery machine. Its maximum speed is 400 m/min. it’s doubling is 4*2=8. Wrapping is around 6 gm/min. VERTICAL GILL BOX (GV20)
Additional passage for fine count material (56Nm and above), 24, 32Nm, Single weft material and 100% wool materials.
To provide even draft distribution.
To make uniform length in each can as per number of doubling for proper run o ut.
To make Sliver even by means o f doubling.
To Produce wrapping (weight / unit length) as per requirement
FALLER DENSITY GN series for normal fibers 6, 6, 7, 7/cm
13.4.
RUBBING FRAME
Rubber Finisher (FM5P)
Additional passage for fine count material (56Nm and above), Single weft material and 100% wool materials.
To provide even draft distribution.
To make uniform length in each can as pe r number of doubling for proper run out.
To make Sliver even by means of doubling.
To produce wrapping (weight / unit length) as per requirement.
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Page 66
There are 3 types of rubbing frames in the spinning section i.e. FM-7N, FM-8N and FM-5P. As shown in the flowchart, the coarser material goes to rubbing frame (FM-7N) and directly goes to the ring frame. The finer material goes to the intermediate rubbing frame (FM-8N), then goes to roving frame and then to the ring frame. For white material FM-5P is used in mo dule C.
13.5. FM-8N In case of rubbing frame, 2 slivers are fed to each drafting head, the strand remaining separate as they are consolidated and given cohesions by means of oscillating rubbing action of aprons. The pair of consolidated rovings is cross wound on to a double meche package which is then used to feed to spindles on the spinning frame. The functions of the simplex are twofold. By drafting the material, it reduces the linear density of the gilled sliver and by twisting; it helps in the formation of suitable package for the subsequent process. FM 5P
Another rubbing frame of the make FM 5P is also used. This machine has the main objective to reduce the wrapping of the material before being fed to the roving frame. This help in the production of finer counts. Bi coiling mechanism saves on creel space on roving frame. These machines convert sliver to roving thus eliminating the need of a roving frame passage. They have higher drafting and higher production capacities than roving frames. Two roving are wound on a single package thus saving on creeling time and number of bobbins in use. As the twist inserted in the roving material is done by the false twisting method, it facilitates the spinning of material, as a lesser break draft is required during spinning. There are two rubbing frames used for production of coarse count material. It is done to reduce the bulkiness of roving. A pair of fluted rubber aprons rubs the material. Here the feed material is sliver and the delivered material is rubbing. Rubbing speed can be adjusted by changing the driving pulley in gearing end.
FM 7N Two ends are fed to the rubbing frame and these two individual ends are wound on the single package that reduces material handling. The sliver is passed through the feed rollers and through the drafting system. Drafting part is of the double apron type. The bottom apron is plain rubber rolling along a cast iron table. Top apron is also of the same type and the fiber control is sit weighted. As the slubbing emerges from the nip of the rubbing rollers, each of which runs on endless leather bands, from the rubbers the roving passes through a funnel is then wound on the bobbin.
13.6.
TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS (FM 7N)
Characteristics
Specifications
Number of Drafting elements
20
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Page 67
Ends/drafting element
2
Maximum input/ end
15.9 gm/m
Maximum delivery weight
0.25-1 gm/ m
Draft Range
5 – 36
Tube diameter
70 mm
Bobbin Diameter
300
Delivery speed
125 m/ min
Rubbing speed
1100 rubs/ min
13.7.
ROVING FRAME
Roving Machine / Rubbing Machine
To produce wrapping (weight / unit length) as per requirement.
To give required twist/rub to avoid stretch during unwinding in ring frame.
To produce a package suitable for subsequent machine.
To make uniform length in each package as per requirement of next machine for proper run-out.
13.8.
Machine particulars
Particulars
BM15
No. Of spindles
64
Draft range
8-12
Delivery speed
Upto 50m/min
Flyer speed
600-800rpm
Twist range
24 tpm
Sliver weight at feeding
5 ktex
Deliver hank
0.4 ktex
13.9.
Roving frame (BM 14)
The draft system of the BM 14 machine comprises of a pendulum arm carrying three balloon rollers controlling the fibers on a wide apron. The flyer frame has overhanging flyers, both the flyers and spindles being driven by groups of toothed belts. Suction device present beneath the drafting roller and device for periodical lifting up of the scr apers on the pressure rollers. Starting a BM 14 roving frame with material requires 3 essential settings: 1. The twist, expressed generally in turns per unit length. Before fitting the twist change wheel the variator for the general speed of the machine is turned down.
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Page 68
2. Building up of the bobbin comprising of pitch of the coil, increase of diameter of the bobbin after each layer and the angle of terminal coming from the bobbin. 3. the drafting system comprising of tension between creel and feed rollers, predraft or tension between feed rollers and draft aprons and draft ratio or speed ratio between draft aprons and front rollers.
TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS (BM 14) Draft range
3.6 - 36
Sliver weight at feeding
15 to 18 g/m
Sliver weight at delivery
1.5 to 0.25 g/m
Twist range
9.2 to 100 tpm
Maximum delivery speed
100m/min
13.10. RING FRAME The rubbing and roving frame bobbins are brought to ring frame dept. the roving is converted into yarn by drafting and twisting. The objectives of the ring frame are as follows:
To produce single yarn of required twist and count as per the instruction from PPD.
To produce good quality of yarn.
To make ring cops by means of building mechanism.
Machine parts
Textool
Drafting arrangement o
3/3 Top arm
Drafting angle ( )
35
Spindle rpm (maximum)
9000
Twist range (TPI)
5 – 45
Bobbin lift (mm)
245
Chase length (mm)
50 – 60
Bobbin diameter (mm)
47
Ring diameter (mm)
51
Working efficiency
75
Draft range
15 – 35
No of machine
30
Roller diameter
40mm
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13.11.
OTHER IMPORTANT POINTS
Spindle oil used in ring frames is SPI N 12 Ring oil: SPIN 12 + SOLUMOL ALL (Emulsifier)
SINGLE YARN STEAMING
To impart dimensional stability to single yarn which will help in smooth and snarl fre e running of yarn on next machine i.e. Machconer.
MACHCONER/PADMATEX AUTOMATIC WINDERS To remove objectionable faults available in the yarn and splice the yarn properly after fault removal and bobbin change. To produce a fault free package suitable for subsequent machine.
PLY WINDING To wind two single yarn of required shade and count ,as per the instruction from PPD department , parallel on a package suitable for subsequent machine i.e for TFO.
TWO FOR ONE TWISTER To twist the two parallel wounded yarn from the ply package as per the TPI (twist per inch) instructed by PPD. DOUBLE YARN STEAMING
To impart dimensional stability to double yarn which will help in smooth and snarl free running of yarn on next machine i.e. Warping and weaving.
PRECISION PROPELLER WINDER To make soft package of double yarn suitable for cheese dyeing.
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Page 70
Vertical
Gill
NSC
1
Box (GV20):
Additional passage for fine count material (56Nm and above), 24, 32Nm, Single weft material and 100% wool materials.
To provide even draft distribution.
To make uniform length in each can as per number of doubling for proper run out.
To make Sliver even by means of doubling.
To Produce wrapping (weight / unit length) as per requirement
Rubber
NSC
3
Additional passage for fine count material
Finisher
(56Nm and above), Single weft material
(FM5P):
and 100% wool materials.
To provide even draft distribution.
To make uniform length in each can as per number of doubling for proper run out.
To make Sliver even by means of doubling.
To Produce wrapping (weight / unit length) as per requirement
Roving Machine
NSC
7
/
To produce wrapping (weight / unit length) as per requirement.
Rubbing
Machine
To give required twist/rub to avoid stretch during unwinding in ring frame.
To
produce
a
package
suitable
for
subsequent machine.
To make uniform length in each package as per requirement of next machine for proper run-out.
TEXTOOL, Ring frame
62
COGNETEX
To produce single yarn of required twist and count as per the instruction from PPD.
To produce good quality of yarn.
To make ring cops by means of building mechanism.
To impart dimensional stability to single yarn which will help in smooth and snarl
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Page 71
free running of yarn on next machine i.e. Machconer Machconer/
MURATA,
Padmatex
PADMATEX
9
To remove objectionable faults available in the yarn and splice the yarn properly after
Automatic
fault removal and bobbin change.
Winders:
To produce a fault free package suitable for subsequent machine.
Ply winding
PEASS
5
To wind
two single yarn of
required
shade and count ,as per the instruction
METTLER
from PPD
department , parallel on a
package suitable for subsequent machine
Two For One
PRERNA
48
Twister
To twist the two parallel wounded yarn from the ply package as per the TPI (twist per inch) instructed by PPD.
Double Steaming
Yarn
R.B.
3
ELECTRONI-CS
To impart dimensional stability to double yarn which will help in smooth and snarl free running of yarn on next machine i.e. warping and weaving.
Precision
PEASS
Propeller
METTLER
1
To make soft package of double yarn suitable for cheese dyeing.
winder
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Page 72
14. WEAVING Weaving is the term used in relation to produce fabric by interlacing two different series of yarns known as warp & weft. Warp ends are placed longitudinally whereas wefts are horizontally placed. Weaving process is commenced by dividing warp into two different sheets in opposite direction & then inserting weft into the shed. By interlacing it into the shed fabric is produced.
14.1.
DEPARTMENTAL HIERARCHY GM (PLANT IN CHARGE )
GM (WORKS)
DGM - WEAVING
MANAGER – WEAVING NP
MANAGER WEAVING
PRODUCTION PLANNING
PREPARATORY
DY. MANAGER
ASST. MANAGER
OFFICER
NIFT HYDERABAD
MAINTENANCE
LOOM SHED
ASST. MANAGER
OFFICER
ASSISTANT
PREPARATORY
DY. MANAGER
FITTER
LOOM SHED
DY. MANAGER
OFFICER
FITTER
Page 73
Weaving department is divided into two sections-
1. warping 2. weaving WARPING The yarns which are coming from double yarn room are going for winding for preparing required amount of package. They are then creeled according to the warp pattern. The main object of warping is to produce a warp sheet according to the warp pattern and the formation of warp beam.
14.2.
YARN ROOM
The weaving activities start from yarn room. After spinning and doubling the yarn, the PPD department and yarn room in charge checks the yarn particulars. Only the correct yarn is given entry in the yarn room according to the correct shade number, lot number etc. The yarn is weighed and its particulars are entered into the computer with specified quantity. After delivering the yarn, remaining yarn is brought back to the yarn room. After twisting & steaming, the yarn from the spinning department comes to the yarn room. In our plant we are having two Yarn Rooms called as Old Double Yarn Room and New Double Yarn Room. Old DYR is for PV blend yarn and New DYR is for PW blend yarns The yarn cheeses are transported by means of trolleys, which are numbered. The yarn cheeses are kept on trolleys and the material from trolleys is kept in a particular bin. The humidity in the yarn room is the same as in TFO twister.
Precaution required to be taken
Correct shade of yarn should be issued to the warping as well as weaving dept.
Along with the shade the twist of the yarn should be checked.
Checking of stains, oil marks, shade variation, contaminants etc.with the help of UV rays.
14.3.
WARPING
The yarns which are coming from DOUBLE YARN ROOM are going for winding for preparing required amount of package. Then they are then creeled according to the warp pattern. The main object of the warping is to produce the warp sheet according to the warp pattern and formation of warp beam. In the fabric forming system, all of the yarns forming are presented in the sheet form. It is therefore necessary to remove or unwind the yarns from the winding package and arrange the desired number of ends in a sheet form & wind it on package under controlled tension on a package called a beam. The yarns must be parallel and under uniform tension.
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Page 74
TYPES OF WARPING 1.
BEAM WARPING
2.
SECTIONAL WARPING
14.4.
BEAM WARPING
Beam warping is simply the winding of yarns directly from the supply packages onto a beam.In a beam warping, depending upon the creel capacity ,the no. of ends are collected together & wind it onto a beam called as a warpers beam.
IMPORTANT PARTS CREEL: A frame to hold the package is known as creel. Its function is to hold the packages in a manner so as to facilitate warping. Creels are equipped with package holders on which the supply package are placed ,tension devices to help maintain uniform tension throughout the creel, guides to direct the yarn and to help keep the ends apart and stop motion to detect broken ends and or empty packages. The maximum capacity ranges from 300 packages to 1400 packages. Creels are either single or multiple package creels. In Benninger & Gamatex maximum creel capacity is 480.the creel is having smooth porcelain guides, thread stop motion, & tensioning devices.
TENSIONING DEVICES Tensioners should be capable of fulfilling the following requirements. 1. Even tension of the ends within the yarn sheet. 2. Wide tension range. 3. Quick threading
THREAD STOP MOTION: The thread stop motion is fitted on the creel though the machine is fitted with an efficient break. This is done to stop the warping before the broken ends are buried in the beam. This is necessary otherwise it would be difficult to locate the broken end.
BRAKE: The warpers must be provided with a break to stop the machine immediately wherever an end breaks or when pre determined length of yarn has been wound on to the beams.
MEASURING MOTION: Warpers are equipped with a measuring motion to measure the length of yarn wound on to the beam and to stop it as soon as the pre determined length of yarn has been wound.
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DOFFING MECHANISM: The warpers beam is too heavy, therefore a warping machine must be provided with a mechanism to place the full be am on the floor or on the trolley.
14.5.
SECTIONAL WARPING
The main object of the warping is to produce the warp sheet according to the warp pattern and formation of warp beam. Sectional warping is done when one needs to produce some design i.e. beam contain some different colours of yarn then sectional warping is used. In sectional warping, the warp threads are wound on the warping drum sectionally. After winding on drum it is then taken on weavers beam. In Raymond, sizing operation is omitted, as all the yarns are doubled and have got a good abrasion resistance and are strong sufficiently. For good abrasion resistance, wax is applied during warping. Waxing is done to prevent the static charge generation, for smooth running of the loom and less fly and fluff generat ion. The yarns which are coming from DOUBLE YARN ROOM are going for winding for preparing required amount of package. Then they are then creeled according to the warp pattern.
OBJECTIVE
With the help of the creel, to accumulate required no. of ends o n drum, section by
section, according to the design.
To facilitate to insert lease in the warp sheet with the help of the leasing reed so as to keep all the warp ends intact in their se quential position.
To collect all the warped ends from drum and to facilitate to wind them in a beam.
To apply requisite amount of wax coating on the warp ends during beaming to reduce hairiness of the yarn and thus producing a weaver’s beam.
LEASE REED The reed is very deep & alternate dents soldered, the ends are drawn through one in dent,this separate all the odd & even ends
SECTION REED The section reed consist of umber of dents which corresponds to the required number of ends per cm. in the fabric. The ends wound on section drum in required length ,the warp sheet is then wound on the warpers beam.
BEAMING After sectional warping they prepare the Weaver’s beam from the warp sheet.
Warping faults
Yarn cone of wrong size.
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Wrong built of cone
Tension variation during warping.
Count mix during creeling.
Broken ends improperly repairs.
Warping reed There are three different count reeds used for different yarn count. 1. Reed Count 5.0 – for 2/24 to 2/48Nm 2. Reed Count 6.06 – for 2/48 to 2/56Nm. 3. Reed Count 8.33 – for 2/56 and above Nm.
14.6.
Waxing
For good abrasion resistance, wax is applied during warping. Waxing is done to prevent the static charge generation, for smooth running of the loom and less fly and fluff generation.
Waxing recipe Cirosol TF
:-19%
Poly Ethelene Glycol :-12% H2O
:- 69%
For 2/24 to2/48 waxing is not done as yarn itself has enough abrasion resistance. At a time 500lit. solution is done at a time ia solution tank. DRAWING IN 14.7. In weaving, it is necessary to space the warp threads properly in order to get the required compactness
of the cloth. This is affected by passing the warp yarn through the dents of the reed of appropriate count so that the cloth woven from the warp may contain the required number of threads. Passing the warp threads through the close drop wires (warp stop motion), heald wires and the dents of the reed are carried out by a process known as “Drawing In” .
Manual Drawing In The process is carried out on an upright frame. The beam is brought on a trolley and placed at the bottom of the frame. The operative opens knots on the warp section and then the yarn is passed through 2 lease rods and then through drop wires, heald frames and reed. The heald shafts and reed are held on separate brackets. The operation of drawing in is carried out in the following manner. One operative is called the ‘reacher’ and the other is called the ‘drawer’ who sits in front of the frame. At the start, the reacher takes a bunch
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of warp threads in his hand, straightens them up and selects the yarn one by one from one extreme end of the loom beam in the proper sequence. By this time, the drawer inserts the hook through the corresponding heald eyes. At the extreme end of one heald as soon as the hook reaches the other side, i.e. on the side of the reacher the latter will insert the appropriate end in the eye of the hook which will be immediately drawn on the other side by the drawer. For manual drawing-in, the speed is around 5000 ends per shift. Special incentives are given to those who cross a particular limit when it comes to extra number of threads drawn in. Drawing in the ends in the yarn tensioner, yarn guide and yarn stop motion – when drawing the ends in the yarn tensioner, yarn guide and yarn stop motion, we always have to start with the nearest end in the uppermost tiers.
Automatic Drawing In Raymond has one of the latest of its kind of drawing in machine the SUPER VEGA. The capacity of this machine is to draw a staggering 25,000 ends per shift. But from year 2004 the Raymond Ltd. Chhindwara introduces a new “Automatic Healding M/C” made in Italy, for drawing in work. This m/c is drawing the yarn in to the heald automatically. Here they are using one yarn package. One gripper is there which inserted in to the one heald eye as well as one drop pin and collect yarn from package and again come back through drop pin and heald eye. By this the yarn is inserted in to the drop pin and heald eye. After drawing there is a cutter which cut the yarn at the package. Again the gripper goes through the heald eye and drop pin for next drawing. According to the design they are feeding program to the computer. According to the program one deflector guide is there which guide the heald to go the respective heald shaft according to the design. After complete the required amount of drawing they are jo ining each end with required beam.
Automatic Drawing In Machine:
SUPER VEGA Automatic Drawing- in machine
Make
ELM SPA, ITALY
Model
Super Vega 2400
Year
2005
Speed
70ends/min
Max speed
80ends/min
Frequency
4 beams/shift
Some of the special features of this machine are as follows:
Automatic computer controlled drawing in of single beam warps.
Up to 80 drawing in operations per min.
Automatic heald wire separation from magazine and its distribution.
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Automatic drop wire separation and distribution also.
Automatic reed, heald wire, drops pin t ransport.
Operation
Make a set of frames
The beam should be knotted first
Draft, peg plan feed in the computer and it will take care of drawing
4-5 times production is more than manual drawing.
M/C No.3
Prashant Gamatex
Make
Prashant India
Model
GE405
Year
1996
Max.
Warping 600
Speed Max.
Beaming
90
Speed
M/C No.1
Beninger
Warping
M/c
Gamatex Make
Benninger Switzerland
Model
EROGOTRONIC
Year
2000
Max. Warping Speed
800
Max. Beaming Speed
200
14.8 Knotting Machines M/C
Staubli Topmatic
Max Speed
350 Knots per Min
Total No. of M/C
3
Automatic Knotting M/c:In case for knotting, two warp sheets of different colors but having same design/pattern. This is done at two places 1. Knotting on warping M/c 2. Knotting on Loom
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14.8.
WEAVING MACHINES
There are total 112 looms, which includes 34 Picanol Gamma, 56 Nuovo Pignone (NP) and 22 Picanol
Gammax looms. The total output of this department is 23000 meters per day. The machines are running with speed of in between 450 – 530 rpm. The weaving department has only one loom type “ rapier”. Rapier loom types are as follows: flexible rapier, flexible free flight, flexible guided hooks ( one guide roller between which ribbon passes to pick warp).
14.9.
RAPIER WEAVING
In Rapier looms, the weft insertion element resembles a rapier or a thin bladed straight sword; hence the name Rapier Weaving. There are many varieties of Rapier systems such as single, double, flexible, rigid, telescopic and two phased. A Rapier in its simplest form consists of a single rigid bar, solid or telescopic and a damp device called gripper head screwed at its feed end. Here the control over the weft is positive during the whole pick insertion cycle. The rapier may be also be of the rigid rod type or flexible, made of metal or plastic tapes. Flexible tapes invariably need guide meters inside the shed that emerge during the pick insertion and sink back into the sley before beat-up. The Rigid rapiers that include telescopic type remain suspended from the fulcrum and may get help from right upper warp sheet.
FEATURES OF RAPIER WEAVING MACHINE
Electronically controlled weft tensioner reduces the yarn tension especially during insertion.
Automatic package switching device prevents the machine from being stopped in the even weft break between the package and weft feed. The weavers can repair the fault while the machine is running and reactivate the unit t hat has been stopped.
Electronically controlled warp let-off and cloth take up units ensure a high degree of fabric regularity and prevents all kinds of start and stop marks.
Grippers are redesigned to ensure better clamping of the yarn and prevent rubbing against the warp yarns.
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Electronic monitoring control systems have simplified the communication with the machine and facilitated its easy handling by anyone concerned with the o peration of the machine.
14.11 PICANOL AND NUOVO PIGNONE LOOMS Picanol and NP loom works on Flexible Rapier principle of Tip transfer. The weft insertion rate for Picanol is around 800mpm while of NP loom is around 600mpm with maximum working width of 190cm and 220 cm for Gamax. Both these looms have an electronic let-off motion for constant warp tension regulation and auto take-up setting mechanism, which eliminates change of pick wheel. Both these looms are adapted to Quick style change, which is necessary with shorter lots as practiced here. Grosse electronic Jacquard controls the name selvedge with 40-hook capacity. The usual heald shafts are controlled by Staubli electronic dobby having a maximum capacity of 18 shafts. The weaver beam capacity for these looms is 500 Kg. Both these loom have tuck-in selvedge. Weft insertion is through yarn accumulator for a controlled weft insertion. Both these looms have provision for multi-colour weft insertion. Here usually four are used.
14.12. FACTS AND STATISTICS
output -23000 mts/day
The machines are running with speed of in betwe en 450 – 530 rpm.
Attachments for jacquard machine is main selvedge, while in dobby machine, it is shedding mechanism.
Fabric design 1. Plain 2. Twill – 2/1, 2/2, 3/1, 3/3 3. Satin = 5-end satin , 4-end satin (warp face) 4. Herringbone (broken twill) 5. Hopesack (double plain) 6. Basket weave (fancy weave)
Types of fabric = linen, all wool, poly-wool, poly-viscose ,silk fabric , lycra ,bamboo fiber
Efficiency = 84%
Average rpm = 400 rpm
Safety
measures
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are
:
photo
sensors
on
warping
machine
and
ear
Page 81
plugs.
14.13. PLUSH WEAVING
Plush is a special type of fabric weaving by which we can produce piled fabric. The warp piled fabric is called as velvet and weft piled fabric is known as velveteen. In Raymond ltd. they are producing warp piled fabric. For producing this 6 Jacquard and 5 dobby m/cs are used. For dobby m/cs two type of warp piled fabric. The main purpose of the plush department is to produce furnishing fabric for automobile industries as
well as for interior decoration. Plush department has two sub departments:
Weaving
Finishing
Most of the yarns used for the manufactured of the plush fabrics are outsourced, other than the polyester yarns which are supplied In- House. Designing studio creates and selects the designs for furnishing fabrics which includes home furnishing, automotive furnishing, carpets (middle weight), bed-ups, aviation etc The department has 11 looms for plush weaving and 8 looms as flat looms. Out of 11 plush looms,
5 - Dobby 6 - Jacquard looms. Out of 6 jacquard looms, only 3 are engaged in carpets while rests three are used in making other things. Out of eight flat looms
4 – Auto furnishing over seat-covers 1 – Suiting’s (Sherwini’s) 2 – Home furnishing 1 – Sampling
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For plush fabric
P/V – base fabric P/acrylic – pile fabric
In flat furnishing 100 % polyester is used while in aviation, viscose blends are used.
In auto furnishing, OEM (own equipment manufacturer) is used – fabric, foam and screen. Screen can be woven or knitted (warp knitted or circular knitted). Firstly, the screen is laminated with foam and then screen with fabric. In aviation, wool/nylon 90/10 blend as well as poly wool 65/35. Sometimes, 100% polyester is
used since aviation fabrics require warm feeling fabrics.90/10 is non-washable but 65/35 is washable.
14.14 Yarns used
For plush dobby : 2/40 Nm
For pile : 2/35 Nm
For plush J/Q : 2/50 Nm for round and 2/30 Nm for pile.
For flat auto furnishing : 360 D, 600 D, 750 D
For home furnishing, chenille yarns of counts 3.5 Nm, 5 Nm are in use. In warp yarns, 150 D polyester is used. For fancy yarns counts are chosen as per appearance and textures.
One should be careful in selecting fibers for pile fabrics. Pile should have soft feel, which is given by acrylic and its blends. From wool, it is not possible.
Pile length = 4 – 8 mm Efficiency of the plush weaving = 51% Bundle requirement=4-5 shift Replacement of all the yarns = 2-3 shift 14.14.
YARN SUPPLIERS FOR PLUSH DEPARTMENT
Banswara
Acrylic/polyester cotton
Grasim RSM
(Rajasthan
Polyester/viscose
spinning
2/30& 2/24 Ne dyed, 2/24&2/30 grey.
mill)
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PSM
100% polyester, 2/20 Ne
Ventura
cotton
Jayashree cotton mill
cotton
Gokak mills
cotton
14.15.
BRAND NAMES
La crème
Home Jacquard.
La mode
Shadow Jacquard
Electra
Auto Jacquard
Fusion
Semi Jacquard
Decora
Made ups/ runner
Sparkle
Flat auto Jacquard
Designo
Chenille
14.16.
JACQUARD
In jacquard m/c carpet fabric and designed pile fabric are produced. Here they are using maximum four colors for designed. There are eight shafts for ground weave, 4 shaft for selvedge and 4 for main body. There are 4736 harness for pile fabric and 4680 harness for carpet. Here each end is controlled by electronic jacquard. Jacquard designs are complicated . The fabric when on loon is of 180 cm width,and finally it becomes 165 cm. it has c reels. The machine runs at 200 rpm. Production of jacquard (plush) = 150/day
Materials used For ground – P/V blend yarn For pile - Poly/ acrylic 60/40 for carpet & acrylic 100% for other fabric s
For weft – Cotton yarn of 6 Ne Generally the yarns are coming from Bansuwara Syntax, RSWM, Priyadarsini mill (Coimbatur), Malwa industry (Ludhiyana), Raymond Ltd. Jalgaon etc. before preparing their own fabric they are rewinding
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the yarn in the cheese form. These are used on creel for Jacquard m/c. They are also using sectional warping m/c to prepare the ground warp beam for all Jacquard, Dobby and also design beam for Dobby.
14.17.
DOBBY
The dobby machine has shafts through which yarn passes. The design area is limited, as simple geometric shapes can be weaved. The machine runs at 240 rpm. The fabric width is 1.5 meter. It has beam.
Production of dobby ( plush)= 225m/day
14.18.
Sr.
DEPARTMENT PLUSH-WEAVING
Description of machine
Model
Make
Year
No. Of m/c
1.
Knotting m/c
HL-210
TODO
1996
1
2.
Perching m/c
STAFI
STAFI
1980
1
1.
Perching m/c
STAFI
STAFI
1979
1
2.
Mending
N.A
N.A
N.A
2
3.
Winding m/c
RECO SA DA
PS.METLER
1996
1
4.
Winding m/c
PF2000E
PSA OTT
2006
1
5.
Warping m/c
GE405
PRASHANT
1996
1
1989
1
1996
1
1996
1
No.
GAMATEX 6.
Warping m/c
BENTRONIC
BENNINGER,
MPS32
M.V.W
J/q& loom
EJP2
GROSSE
J/q &loom
VMM32
M.V.W
EJP2
GROSSE
VMM32
M.V.W
EJP2
GROSSE
7. 8.
9.
J/q &loom
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10. 11. 12.
J/q &loom J/q &loom J/q &loom
VMM32
M.V.W
EJP2
GROSSE
VMM32
M.V.W
EJP2
GROSSE
MPS32
M.V.W
1996
1
1996
1
1989
1
1996
1
1996
1
1989
1
GROSSE EJP2 13.
Dobby loom
VMM22 M.V.W
14.
Dobby loom
VMM22 M.V.W
15.
Dobby loom
MPS22 M.V.W
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15.
FINISHING
Finishing is the final process of preparation of the fabric. Finishing processes are carried out to improve the natural properties of the fabric. Its primary objective is to enhance the quality of the cloth, imparting the woven fabric a specific appearance, handle in order to make it attractive, the aesthetic appeal and its serviceability. The finishing department receives the fabric either from mending department or from the fabric-dyeing department. The processes of the finishing treatment differs according to the blends, shades etc. Finishing department in Raymond is divided into 3 sections viz.
grey room,
wet section and
dry section.
15.1.
GREY ROOM
This section is called grey room because all the grey material from the weaving department after perching and mending is being sent to grey room. Here all the pieces are sorted according to weaving machine number.
15.2.
WET SECTION
This section is known as wet finish section because all the treatments that are carried out on the material are in wet form that includes Batching, Pre-scouring, Heat set, Shearing, Singeing, Wetting, Solvent scouring, Rope scouring, Squeezing, Drying.
15.3.
DRY SECTION
This section is called the dry finish section as here the fabric is treated in dry form throughout. Only mechanical operations are rendered to the fabric in order to enhance its look, shine and feel. This
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treatment is generally under the influence of pressure and steam which includes Damping, Nikki press, Dolphin-Contipress, Stabila (antishrink), TMT (kier decatising) and Super finish (open decatising).
15.4.
Process flow chart of the Finishing Department (wet section)
P/W top dyed
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P/W piece dyed
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P/V fiber dyed
15.5.
P/V piece dyed
Definitions (wet section): BATCHING : It is the process of matching or shade sorting each beam of fabric to make a bigger batch from the individual smaller ones.
SCOURING : Scouring is a process essentially carried out for each and every fabric in the finishing department aimed at removing all sorts of oils, fatty acids, impurities and waxes from the fabric as well as the oil marks in the selvedge of the fabric, marks on the body of the fabric, greasy matters and other unwanted foreign materials on it. There are two types of scouring machine viz.
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open width scouring machine and
rope scouring machine
ROPE OPENER: After rope scouring, the fabric is in the wet condition and in rope form. So it comes to rope opener for the opening and washing purpose.
STENTER :The stenter can be used for heat setting, drying and resin treatment. Before passing the fabric through the heating chamber, it is passed through a tank containing water and softener. Pins on the conveyor grip the fabric properly before entering into the chamber. 10 coils heat the drying chamber. It comprises of five chambers and each chamber is provided with heated radiators and two blower fans. These radiators are heated with continuously circulating heated oils through it. Heated oil enters at one end of radiator and goes back for reheating from the other end. Thus, the same oil is continuously circulated in these radiators. A fan does the function of blowing the heat of radiators on the fabric passing through these chambers. Suction is provided for extracting the moisture. For heat setting, the temperature of the chamber is kept about 185ºC and for drying; it is around 140ºC. Before the heat setting is carried out by stentering an operation called as bowing is carried out. This operation helps in maintaining the width of the fabric. If the fabric requires resin treatment then resin is applied thorough padding mangle.
SINGEING: In singeing, the fabric is perfectly opened out and passed on direct flame of fully combusted flue at a very high speed while the height of the flame can be adjusted as per the quality of the material to avoid the damage to the fabric by burning the protruding fibres. At the time of contact between the flame and the fabric, the fabric is passed over water cooled guide rollers for avoiding any damage to the fabric.
SHEARING: The object of shearing is to remove protruding fibres from the cloth surface and to even out or level the fibre or neps that has been previously rose. After rescouring the yarns in the fabric swells resulting in the opening of twist in the yarn thus increasing the surface fibres. Shearing is the most important process in the dry finishing department. This process makes further process very easier and imparts goods sharpness on the surface.
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WETTING: it is a process used to remove the dust and ash particles formed during the singeing process and to improve the absorbency of fabric by using wetting agent. The solution used for this is water and Sandozin MRN (wetting agent- 2g/ l).
15.6.
Process flow chart of the Finishing Department (dry section)
P/W top dyed
15.7.
P/W piece dyed
P/V (piece & fiber dyed)
Definations (dry section): DAMPING: Damping is the operation carried out before pressing and decatising. In all pressings, temperature goes above 100oC, which can cause complete evaporation of the water particles from the fabric. Before pressing it is very important for the fabric to have sufficient amount of water to give better finish. In this process, moisture is artificially given to the fabric by evenly spraying water under certain pressure t hus giving the required amount of moisture to the fabric.
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PRESSING: The aim of pressing is to make the fabric smoother by subjecting it to the strong compression against polished and heated rollers. Objective of pressing are aesthetic and partly commercial. Many times the finishing operation disturbs the surface of the yarn and the fabric. The unevenness and the impurities cannot be reduced till it is blown and pressed. Pressing can be considered as mild, mainly cohesive setting treatment. In Raymond, pressing is carried out on Nikki press machine.
RELAXATION: The main objective of this process is to minimize the process shrinkage. Due to various finishing processes the fabric gets stretched in lengthwise and widthwise. Therefore it becomes necessary to remove the excess tension of the fabric. This is done by passing the fabric over the conveyor belt through saturated steam and hot air pressure. The conveyor is subjected to vibration through vibrator roller. Fabric is pressurized through the steam of 3.5kg pressure. 0
0
The tunnel temperature is maintained at 105 C to 110 C. At the same time dry air is blown through perforated conveyor and fabric. This overall process gives relaxation to the fabric and minimizes the process shrinkage which reduces shrinkage after finishing.
DECATISING: The object of decatising is merely to remove excessive lusture, and the thin papery handle from previous processes, as well as to prepare for pressing and cutting. There are two types of decatising: open and kier. In the case of kier decatising(K.D), pressure is applied to the material along with steam while in the case of open decatising, no pressure is applied and only steam is passed through the drums. The results obtained from K.D are more permanent.
SUPER FINISH: This machine is used to give special type of shine and lusture to the fabric. Here temperature, pressure and steam are maintained according to the quality of the fabric. Therefore, decatising process also occurs in this machine. The fabric fed to the pressing unit is passed dry or moist at high temperature between the mirror bright chromated effect roller and the rubber coated surface of the guide belt under high belt tension wherein actual setting and pressing takes place. The WEKO humidifier situated immediately upstream of actual press unit, to prevent irregularities on the moist side of the moistened fabric to ensure uniform moisture application adjustments.
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15.8.
Machine details:
NAME Batangas
NO. OF M/C 4
Batchmaking
MODEL Calico (Bombay)
FEATURES Max 700 to 800 meters per lot
Type: - PPM/076
m/C Open width
1
Dhall Ahemadabad
washing m/c Jigger m/c
For pre-scouring, speed-16mt/min, pH-7.5
3
JT10
For pre-scouring, chemicalsDidavin-EWN, Baysolux, Oxalic acid, etc, speed-50mt/min
Stenter
Shearing m/c
Singeing m/c
Wetting m/c
2
3
2
1
Harish (Gujarat) Model: -
For heat set, speed-22mt/min, 170-
Supra 5
185 C
Lafer Italy
m/c speed- 25mt/min, cutter-
Model :-CMI2(1996), CMI-200(2003),
1100rpm, 4 brushes at 500 rpm,
osthoff – senge (germany)
Burner distance-10-12mm, flame
Model: - VP-97 (1998)
mt/min
------------------------
100 liter – H2O
brush direction- reverse to fabric.
intensity- 10-14 bar, speed- 80-100
2 gpl – Sandozin MRN (wetting agent) Rope scouring
11
m/c
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MAT SPA (Italy), Hemmer, Dolly, Serracant, Zonco(Italy), Dhall (Ahmadabad)
Detergent- Ascodet ECN, softnerSarasoft 485 , fabric remains inside for 60 min
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